FIROSTEFA?NI , between FirA? and ImerovA­gli, is the best bet for reasonably priced rooms with views over the caldera. Rooms in FirostefA?ni of varying prices and standards include Apartments Gaby (tel 02860/22 057; a?¬59-72), Hotel Mylos (tel 02860/23 884; a?¬43-58), Kafieris Hotel (tel 02860/22 189; a?¬34-58) and the rooms of Ioannis Roussos (tel 02860/22 611 or 22 862; a?¬43-58). For something smarter, Manos Apartments (tel 02860/23 202; a?¬59 and upwards) is highly recommended.

Another good location, where you don't have to pay for the (caldera) view, is KARTERA?DHOS , a small village about twenty-minutes' walk southeast of FirA?, where you'll find pleasant Hotel Albatross (tel 02860/23 435, fax 23 431; a?¬59-72), the charming Cyclades (tel 02860/24 543; a?¬59-72) and the welcoming Pension George (tel 02860/22 351; a?¬34-42). Nomikos Travel can help you find a room (see below).

FirA?'s restaurants are primarily aimed at the tourist market, but for dependably good food with a sensational view find Aris , below the Loucas Hotel , or Flame of the Volcano , the last of the caldera-side restaurants north past the cable-car station (towards FirostefA?ni). On ErythroA? StavroA?, the first street up from the main square, Nikolas is an old and defiantly traditional taverna, but it can be hard to get a table; the best budget choice is Naoussa , further north on the same street, upstairs on the right. Otherwise try Koutouki on 25-MartA­ou, the road to A?a, the welcoming Mama's Cyclades , a little further up on the same road, or Aktaion in FirostefA?ni. Most of the nightlife can be found northwest of the central square on ErythroA? StavroA?: Town Club, Amnesia, Murphy's and, just above, Enigma and Koo . The best bars from which to admire the caldera are Franco's , a rather exclusive and pricey cocktail bar, and the more relaxed Renaissance , below the Loucas Hotel .

Nomikos Travel (tel 02860/23 660) on 25-MartA­ou, opposite the OTE, is friendly and organizes excursions and trips to ancient ThA­ra and ThirassA­a in conjunction with Kamari Tours (tel 02860/31 390). Buses leave FirA? from just south of PlatA­a TheotokopoA?lou to PA©rissa, PerA­volos, KamA?ri, MonA?lithos, AkrotA­ri A?rmos, AthiniA?s and the airport. Taxis (tel 02860/22 555) go from near the bus station. If you want to see the whole island in a couple of days a rented motorbike might do, though you must be very careful - especially since local drivers seem to enjoy antagonizing tourists on difficult and precipitous roads; try Moto Chris at the top of the road that leads down to Santorini Camping .