A more atmospheric option is to head for the little alley, FotA­ou TheodhosA?ki , which runs through from the market to OdhA?s Evans. It is entirely lined with the tables of rival taverna owners, certainly authentic and catering for market traders and their customers as well as tourists. Compared with some, they often look a little grimy, but they are by no means cheap, which can come as a surprise.

A relaxed lunchtime venue in the centre of town is Geroplatanos with tables on the leafy PlatA­a AyA­ou TA­tou beside the church of the same name. Across from here is one of IrA?klion's most stylish bars, Pagopoleion ("Ice Factory"), also good for lazy terrace breakfasts and snacks; the same place has now added an excellent restaurant and although medium priced, the food is consistently good - their recommended mezedhA?kia buffet (Sat & Sun 1-4pm) allows you to fill a plate for a?¬4.50. Pagopoleion is the creation of photographic artist Chrissy Karelli, who has preserved a strident inscription on one wall, left by the Nazi occupiers who used local labour to run what was then IrA?klion's only ice factory. Still near the centre, just off EleftherA­as at PlatA­a DhaskaloyiA?nni (where the post office is), are some inexpensive and unexceptional tavernas; by day the platA­a is however a pleasant and relaxing venue, if not for a meal then to sit at one of its cafA©s, which transform themselves into more raucous and crowded music bars after dark. Nearer VenizA©lou, try exploring some of the backstreets to the east, off DhedhA?lou and behind the loggia. The Taverna Giovanni , on the alley KorA?A? parallel to DhedhA?lou, is one of the better tavernas in IrA?klion, although the pricey food and an expensive wine list seem aimed more at IrA?klion's smart set than the casual visitor. Should you have a craving for non-Greek food, there is Italian at the equally expensive Loukoulos and Chinese at the New China Restaurant , both with leafy courtyards and in the same street as the Taverna Giovanni . More reasonable prices are on offer at the very good new taverna-ouzerA­ Vareladika , MonA­s AgarA?thou 13, close to the Venetian harbour which offers a wide range of Cretan specialities in a stylish setting. Mexican tacos and beers are on offer at Chilis , HA?ndhakos 71 on the west side of the central zone - an area with many lively bars and cafA©s.

The waterfront is dotted with fish tavernas with little to recommend them. Instead, turn left at the bottom of 25-AvgoA?stou and cross the road to Ippokampos , which specializes in excellent-value fish dishes and mezA©dhes at moderate prices. It is deservedly popular with locals and is often crowded late into the evening: you may have to wait in line or turn up earlier than the Greeks eat. Even if you see no space it is worth asking as the owner may suddenly disappear inside the taverna and emerge with yet another table to carry further down the pavement. For simple and cheap seafood mezA©dhes, slightly south from here, Katsina at Marineli 12 is a simple and friendly ouzerA­ with outdoor tables; this alley has a whole bunch of similar places popular with locals, ending with Kapetanios , opposite the pint-sized chapel of A?yios DimA­trios.

For snacks and takeaways , there's a whole group of souvlA?ki stalls clustering around the top of 25-AvgoA?stou at the entrance to El Greco Park, which is handy if you need somewhere to sit and eat. For tyrA?pita and spanakA?pita (cheese or spinach pies) and other pastries, sweet or savoury, there are no shortage of zaharoplastA­a and places such as Everest - just north of the Morosini fountain - which does takeaways of these as well as a whole bunch of other savouries. If you want to buy your own food, the market on OdhA?s 1866 is the place to go; it's an attraction in itself, and does a great line in modestly priced Cretan herbs (including saffron) to take home.