The area around AlefkA?ndhra is a promising place to head for a full meal : La Cathedral , by the two cathedrals on the platA­a, has standard fare; Pelican , behind the cathedrals, is pricey but well sited; and Kostas , also nearby, has competitive prices, a good wine list including barrelled wine (not easily found on Mykonos) and friendly service. Less than fifty metres further along MitropA?leos, the small Yiavroutas Estiatorio is probably the least expensive and most authentically Greek place on the island, again with good barrelled wine. Kounelas is a good fish taverna with more reasonable prices than Spiro's on the seafront. Edem , close to PanakhrA?ndou, offers poolside dining. El Greco at TrA­a PigA?dhia is expensive but romantic, and Gatsby's on TourlianA­s is a gay-friendly restaurant with an adventurous menu. The Sesame Kitchen on A?noplon DhinamA©on is an acceptable vegetarian restaurant; however, most of the smarter restaurants in Mykonos do cater well for vegetarians anyway. Just behind the town hall is Nikos' Taverna - crowded, reasonable and recommended. For late-night snacks, most of the cafA©s on Kambani stay open until the small hours, and Cafe Express is open all night.

Nightlife in town is every bit as good as it's cracked up to be - and every bit as pricey. Remezzo (near the OTE) is one of the oldest bars, now a bit over the hill but a lively spot nonetheless, and a good place to have a drink before moving onto Mercedes Club next door; both are popular with young Athenians. Skandinavian Bar-Disco is a cheap-and-cheerful party spot, as is the nearby Irish Bar , and there are more sophisticated bars on AndhronA­kou MatoyiA?nni and A?noplon DhinamA©on. Katerina's, Caprice and Kastro , in Little Venice, are ideal for sunset cocktails; the first serves delicious fresh fruit juices, and the latter plays classical music and is popular with an older gay crowd. Back (northeast) towards the harbour, La Mer is a popular disco/bar playing alively mix of Greek and dance music, while Porta is a popular gay haunt near Kounelas restaurant. Pierro's and Icarus (upstairs), just off PlatA­a MavroyA©nous, become the focal point of gay activity later on, the latter having great drag shows and welcoming proprietors. Cavo Paradiso , near Paradise Camping , is the after-hours club where die-hard party animals of all persuasions come together.