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Eating and drinking
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Immediately behind the town beach are arrayed the most touristy
restaurants
, the vast majority being overpriced and of dubious quality. One that maintains some integrity (and reasonable prices) is the
Samaria
taverna, almost opposite the tourist office. Around the inner
harbour
there's a second, rather more expensive, group of tavernas, specializing in fish, though as often as not the intimate atmosphere in these places is spoiled by the stench from the harbour itself;
O Zefyros
is one of the less outrageously pricey and maintains reasonable standards. Not far from here and slightly west of PlatAa PlastAra,
Taverna Fanari
at MakedhonAas 5 is a good-value little restaurant serving up tasty lamb and chicken dishes. Another good option in this zone is
Taverna Castelvecchio
, HimA?ras 29, a long-established family taverna next to the fortress which has a pleasant terrace with view over the town and offers some vegetarian choices.
The cluster of kafenAa and tavernas by the RimA?ndi fountain and the newer places spreading into the surrounding streets generally offer considerably better value than the inner harbour, and a couple of the old-fashioned kafenAa serve magnificent yogurt and honey. Places to try include Kyria Maria at MoskhovAtou 20, tucked down an alley behind the fountain (after the meal, everyone gets a couple of MarAa's delicious tyropitA?kia with honey on the house); Agrimia , a reliable standard on PlatAa PetihA?ki, slightly east of the fountain; and the Zanfoti kafenAo overlooking the fountain which is relatively expensive, but a great place to people-watch over a coffee; and for a slightly cheaper option O Psaras (The Fisherman), a simple, friendly taverna by the church on the corner of NikifA?rou FokA? and KoronAŠou. A good lunchtime stop close to the Archeological Museum is O Pontios , MelissinoA? 34, a simple place with tables outside and an enthusiastic female proprietor. Healthy, home-baked lunches can also be had at Stella's Kitchen , a simple cafAŠ linked to Olga's Pension at SoulAou 55, where meals can be enjoyed up on the leafy roof garden. Tucked behind the church on PlatAa MartAron, Mesostrati is a pleasant little neighbourhood ouzerA/taverna serving well-prepared Cretan country dishes and has a small terrace. A noisier evening alternative is Taverna O Gounos , KoronAŠou 6 in the old town; the family who run it perform live lyra every night, and when things get really lively the dancing starts.
If you want takeaway food, there are numerous
souvlA?ki
stalls, including a couple on ArkadhAou and PaleolA?gou and another at PetikhA?ki 52, or you can buy your own ingredients at the
market
stalls set up daily on EthnikAs AndistA?sis below the Porta Guora. There are small general stores scattered everywhere, particularly on PaleolA?gou and ArkadhAou; east along the beach road you'll even find a couple of mini supermarkets. The
bakery
I Gaspari on MesolongAou, just behind the RimA?ndi fountain, sells the usual cheese pies, cakes and the like, and it also bakes excellent brown, black and rye bread. There's a good
zaharoplastAo, N.A. Skartsilakos
, at PaleolA?gou 36, just north of the fountain, and several more small cafAŠs which are good for breakfast or a quick coffee. Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections): |
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Greece,
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