Banks and exchange The State Bank of India, near the Secretariat on MG Road (Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, Sat 10am-noon) accepts only travellers' cheques and currency. The State Bank of Travancore (Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, Sat 10am-noon) at Statue Junction and the domestic airport recognizes travellers' cheques, currency, Visa and Mastercard. Wall Street Finances (Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; tel 0471/450659) is located behind the Lucia Continental Hotel in East Fort, and the Central Reserve Bank, in the lobby of the KTDC Chaithram Hotel . American Express cashes travellers' cheques and advances money on credit cards through The Great Indian Tour Company, Mullassery Tavern, Vanross Junction (tel 0471/331516), east off MG Road. Thomas Cook has a counter at the airport and an office at Tourindia, MG Road (tel 0471/330437).

Car rental Inter-Car, Ayswarya Buildings, Press Road tel 0471/330964; Nataraj Travels, Thampanoor tel 0471/323034; The Great Indian Tour Company, Mullassery Towers, Vanross Jctn tel 0471/331516; Travel India, opposite the Secretariat, MG Road tel 0471/478208.

Dance and drama For Kathakali and Kutiyattam check with the Margi School, or the tourist office on Station Road, which organizes free dance performances at the open-air Nishagandhi Auditorium (Sept-March Sat 6.45pm).

Hospitals General Hospital, near Holy Angels Convent, Vanchiyur tel 0471/443874; Ramakrishna Mission Hospital, Sastamangalam tel 0471/322123.

Internet access is widely available in Thiruvanathapuram, but on the pricey side (as is internet throughout southern Kerala) at Rs60-80 per hour. The most efficient place is at Hotel Chaithram (Rs60/hr). Alternatively, try Megabyte on MG Road and Tandem Communications at Statue Junction.

Pharmacies Central Medical Stores, amongst others, at Statue Junction, MG Road.

Post office in Vanchiyur district, a short distance west of MG Road (daily 8am-6pm), with poste restante counter.

Telephones the Telegraph Office, opposite the Secretariat on MG Road, is open 24hr.

Travel agents Aries Travels (specialists for tours to the Maldives), Ayswarya Bldg, Press Road tel 0471/330964; Swastik Tours and Travel, Puthenchantai, MG Road tel 0471/331691, fax 331270; The Great Indian Tour Company, Mullassery Towers, Vanross Jctn tel 0471/331516; Airtravel Enterprises (good for air tickets), New Corporation Building, MG Road, Palayam tel 0471/323900; Tourindia (pioneering cruise and tour operators), MG Road tel 0471/330437; Travel India, opposite the Secretariat, MG Road (tel 0471/478208).

Yoga The Sivananda Yoga Ashram at 37/1929 Airport Road, Palkulangara, West Fort (tel 0471/450942) holds daily classes at various levels, which you can arrange on spec. Better still, head for Neyyar Dam, 28km east of town, where their world-famous Dhanwanthari ashram offers excellent two-week introductory courses amid idyllic mountain surroundings.