Banks and exchange Most foreign-currency branches of the major banks are located in the Cantonment area. The State Bank of India behind Best Western Hotel , the Mall (Mon-Fri 10am -2pm; Sat 10am-noon) will change travellers' cheques but doesn't advance cash on Visa cards. The Allahabad Bank is near Takshal Cinema . Most of the top hotels also have foreign exchange facilities. Down at Dashaswamedh, there is a branch of the State Bank of India past the Garden Restaurant on Madanpura road, but it will not change American Express travellers' cheques; the Bank of Baroda in the Hotel Ganges building accepts credit cards but not travellers' cheques; Radiant Services near the main Godaulia junction (near St Thomas' church) changes travellers' cheques and cash- they charge a higher commission than banks but stay open long hours (daily 9am-8pm; 6 percent commission on Visa).

Bookshops Amit (University) Book House, University Road, Lanka, with another branch at Asi Ghat, have a good range of novels and coffee-table books on India; Indica Books, D40/18 Godaulia, have a good selection of religion and philosophy and also provide a useful parcel mailing service; Nandi, Varanasi Ashok, has a good selection including secondhand books which you can also sell here. A secondhand bookshop on Vishwanath Lane, outside the golden temple, will do exchanges.

Car rental at around Rs700 per day is available from ITDC in the Hotel Varanasi Ashok , the Mall (tel 0542/346032); Travel Corporation of India, Hotel Clarks , the Mall (tel 0542/348501); and the Government of India tourist office (tel 0542/343744).

Hospitals Sir Sunderlal Hospital, Benares Hindu University (tel 0542/312542 to 45); Shiv Prasad Gupta Hospital (government-run), Kabir Chaura (tel 0542/333723); Marwari Hospital, Godaulia (tel 0542/321456); Ram Krishna Mission Hospital, Luxa (tel 0542/321727).

Internet access Internet cafes aimed at travellers and costing around Rs60/hr cluster around Kachauri Lane.

Motorcycles Jagatganj, near the Sanskrit University. Mechanics and workshops specializing in Enfields are clustered in this area; ask around for a secondhand bike.

Music The International Music Ashram, D33/81 Kalishpura, old city, is an excellent place to get a few lessons in tabla, sitar and theory.

Opticians Gupta Optical, Godaulia (10am-7pm).

Pharmacies The 24hr Singh Medical pharmacy is near the Prakash Cinema , Lahurabir, a couple of kilometres north of Godaulia.

Photography Bright Studio, Godaulia; Passi Studio, Lahurabir; Veer Studio, Jagatganj, in front of Queen's College.

Post The main post office is in the Cantonment area. Other branches are located in Hotel Clarks ; down by the river on the Dashaswamedh road 100m beyond Vishwanatha Lane and the Madhur Milan dhaba ; and near Kotwali police station at the top end of Chowk.

Travel agencies General travel agencies, selling train, plane and bus tickets, include the ITDC, at the Ashok , the Mall (tel 0542/346032); the friendly Nova International on Shubhash Nagar, near Parade Kothi (tel 346903); Sita Travels (tel 0542/342447) and Travel Corporation India (tel 0542/346209), both at Hotel Clarks ; and Varuna Travels, Pandey Haveli (tel 0542/323370).

Visa extensions The Foreigners Registration Office is on Srinagar Colony, Sigra (tel 0542/351968).

Yoga There is a yoga institute at the Benares Hindu University, but the Yoga Ashram Academy (D 5/4 Ganesha Guest House , Saraswati Phatak) in Godaulia is more central. Vag Yoga Consciousness Institute (B 3/13A, Shivala; tel 0542/311706), is based near Shivala Ghat. Many traveller-oriented hotels and cafes have leaflets advertising classes and venues.