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Bellagio
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Cradled by cypress-spiked hills on the tip of the triangle separating Como's two "legs",
BELLAGIO
has been called the most beautiful town in Italy. With a promenade planted with oleanders and limes,
fin-de-siA?cle
hotels painted shades of butterscotch, peach and cream, and a hilly old centre of steep cobbled streets and alleyways - to say nothing of its tremendous location - it's certainly a contender.
The lake is clean enough to swim in here, which you can do from the Lido (Easter-Oct daily 8am-midnight) at the end of the promenade, or if you can't stand the piped music, do as the local kids do and have a dip at the tiny harbour less than 1km out of town in the other direction; follow the signs to the Ristorante La Punta . The gardens of the Villa Melzi behind (April-Oct daily 9am-6.30pm; L5000/a?¬2.58) are no great shakes, but it's well worth making the effort to book onto a guided tour around the gorgeous gardens of the Villa Serbelloni , splendidly sited on a hill above the town. Built on the site of one of Pliny the Younger's villas, it is now owned by the Rockefeller Foundation, and is perhaps the best place to appreciate Bellagio's genteel English air. It was once a favourite haunt of European monarchs, and it's not hard to imagine them strolling among the grottoes and statues of the extravagant garden and gushing over the views of the two branches of the lake. The sumptuously frescoed interior is closed to visitors, but there are guided tours around the gardens (April-Oct Tues-Sun 11am & 4pm; book at the tourist office; L6000/a?¬3.10). At the foot of the hill is a classy hotel, also called Villa Serbelloni (tel 031.950.216, fax 031.951.529, www.villaserbelloni.it ; over L400,000/a?¬206.58), whose guests numbered Churchill, recovering from the war in late 1945, and John F. Kennedy. Bellagio's tourist office , on Piazza della Chiesa (Easter-Oct daily 9am-noon & 3-6pm; Nov-Easter Mon & Wed-Sat same hours; tel 031.950.204, www.fromitaly.net/bellagio ), is a helpful source of information. If you're staying , the least expensive rooms are at the Suisse , Piazza Mazzini 8 (tel 031.950.335; L60,000-90,000/a?¬30.99-46.48), a slightly down-at-heel hotel on the lakefront, boasting a fine restaurant. Alternatively try the Giardinetto , Via Roncati 12 (tel 031.950.168; L60,000-90,000/a?¬30.99-46.48; March-Oct), with a garden where you can picnic, or Il Perlo Panoramico (tel 031.950.229; L90,000-120,000/a?¬46.48-61.98; March-Oct), with views of the lake. If you have your own transport, you could opt for La Pergola (tel 031.950.263, fax 031.950.253; L150,000-200,000/a?¬77.47-103.29), set in a stunning location in Pescallo, just over the hill to the Lecco arm of the lake - and with a good restaurant.
Bellagio's
restaurants
range from cheap snack bars to pricey establishments that cater to the beautiful people. For snacks and light meals, try
La Lanterna
at Salita Serbelloni 15 (closed Thurs), an animated hangout that serves pasta, omelettes and sandwiches. For an excellent pizza, head for
La Grotta
, Salita Cernaia 14 (closed Mon), clearly signposted from the lakefront. A cheap, full meal can be had at the
Bistro del Ritorno
, Via E. Vitali 8, which does a good-value menu, but if money's no object, splash out at
Bilacus
, on Salita Serbelloni, which is reckoned to be the town's best restaurant. Another good bet is
La Punta
(tel 031.951.888; you'll need to book at weekends and in high season), which serves excellent food at good prices and offers lovely views over the lake. The best places for ice cream are
Il Sorbetto
at the top of Salita Serbelloni, and the
Gelateria del Borgo
at Via Garibaldi 46.
Nightlife
in Bellagio centres on a couple of trendy bars:
Divina Commedia
, an American-style bar and creperie, clearly signposted off Via Garibaldi (closed Wed), frescoed with
putti
, poppies and dippy blond angels, where they also do good food; and the similarly styled
Spiritual CafA©
, a music and video bar at Salita Plinio 12 (closed Wed). Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections): |
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Italy,
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