|
ChiA?vari
|
|
|
Most of the 9km train journey from Rapallo east to
CHIA?VARI
is through tunnels, so for an idea of the scenery you need to dawdle on bus #9, which follows the mad coast road around several headlands. Some of the villas and gardens are spectacular, surrounded by wisteria, fig trees and mini olive groves. The overriding attraction, however, is the sea, brilliant turquoise coves appearing as the bus takes another bend; you can stop off at any of the signs that point
al mare
- though you probably won't be alone when you get there.
ChiA?vari, itself, however, by contrast, sits on a flat, featureless bit of coastline. Called Clavarium ("Keys") by the Romans for the access it gave them to the inland valleys, it's still a good starting-point for trips into the mountains and has a characterful, untouristed old quarter. Boats shuttle all summer long west to Rapallo and east to the Cinque Terre , and the bus and train stations are beside each other in the town centre, forming a barrier between the seafront to the south and the large public gardens of Piazza Nostra Signora dell'Orto to the north. The tourist office is opposite the station at Corso Assarotti 1 (Mon-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm, Sun 9.30am-12.30pm; tel 0185.325.198, www.apttigullio.liguria.it ). Wander through the piazza, with its ochre cathedral , into the peaceful old quarter of medieval arcades lined with food shops and outlets for macramA©, a craft brought back from the Middle East by local sailors. The pretty main square, Piazza Mazzini , hosts a thriving market each morning. East along Via Martiri is Piazza Matteotti and the crumbling seventeenth-century Palazzo Rocca, now home to the Civica Galleria (Sat & Sun 10am-noon & 4-7pm; free), displaying paintings by Genoese artists. Next door in the same palazzo is the more engaging Museo Archeologico (Tues-Sat 9am-1.30pm, also second & fourth Sun of month 9am-1.30pm; free), with finds from a nearby seventh- to eighth-century necropolis.
The
Dell'Orto
is a comfortable three-star
hotel
beside the cathedral at Piazza N.S. dell'Orto 3 (tel 0185.322.356, fax 0185.322.215; L90,000-120,000/a?¬46.48-61.98), although you may prefer the peace and quiet to be found at the plusher
Monterosa
, at the north edge of the old town arcades, Via Marinetti 6 (tel 0185.300.321, fax 0185.312.868,
www.gattei.it/monterosa
; L120,000-150,000/a?¬61.98-77.47). The cheapest option is
Villa Le Rose
, west of the centre at Salita Bacezza 13 (tel 0185.303.493; up to L60,000/a?¬30.99). The
Al Mare
A
campsite
is at Via Preli 30 (tel & fax 0185.304.633). There are lots of pleasant
eateries
on the old town squares.
Da Vittorio,
just north of Piazza Mazzini (closed Thurs), is a workers' cafA© serving tasty local dishes, while
Cantine Reggiana
, under the old town arcades at Via Martiri di Liberazione 27 (closed Mon) does a delicious
minestrone alla genovese. Ideal Bar
, Piazza N.S. dell'Orto 31 (closed Sun), has
Internet
access. Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections): |
|
Italy,
|