Best of Fiesole's few hotels is the stunning Villa San Michele , a fourteenth-century former monastery at Via Doccia 4 (tel 055.567.8200, fax 055.567.8250, www.orient-expresshotels.com ; over L400,000/€206.58). On the slope below, is the light and stylish Villa Fiesole , Via Beato Angelico 35 (tel 055.597.252, fax 055.599.133, www.villafiesole.it ; L250,000-300,000/€129.11-154.94); half-board here is no hardship, since the food is as impressive as the terrace views. Both have private parking. Villa Sorriso , Via Gramsci 21 (tel 055.59.027, fax 055.597.8075; L90,000-120,000/€46.48-61.98), is a pleasant, unfussy mid-price option. The campsite   Panoramico , 3km east at Via Peramonda 1 (tel 055.599.069, fax 055.59.186), is Florence's best. Ranged around Piazza Mino are a handful of restaurants , including Mario at no. 9r (tel 055.59.143; closed Tues), with a shaded terrace and good salads; and the pizza/pasta Etrusca at no. 2r (closed Thurs). India , Via Gramsci 43a (tel 055.599.900; closed Tues) has quality mid-priced North Indian cuisine - plenty of mughlai and tandoori dishes - as well as both veggie and meat-based thalis .

Fiesole's big party is the Estate Fiesolana ( www.comune.fiesole.fi.it/Estatefiesolana ), a festival of music, dance and drama held in the Roman amphitheatre from June to September, which incorporates the prestigious international Florence Dance Festival during July . July 6 is the day of St Romolo , patron saint of Fiesole, celebrated with a procession and festivities.