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FA?ggia
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The Tavoliere's main town,
FA?GGIA
, looms out of the plain without warning, a fine starting-point for exploring northern Puglia and the Gargano promontory though in itself not that encouraging a stop. Although FA?ggia flourished under Frederick II, who declared it an imperial residence and built a palace here, the town was devastated in turn by the French in 1528, an earthquake in 1731, and Allied bombs during World War II. Today the city's streets are all reassuringly earthquake-proof, wide and low-built, a modern layout that is handsome enough, but you're going to have to search hard in between the tree-lined boulevards for what is left of the old town.
What little there is lies scattered around the Duomo , which is to the left off Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main drag that runs down from the central, fountained Piazza Cavour. The cathedral is an odd Romanesque-Baroque sandwich, the top part tacked on in the eighteenth century after the earthquake. Much of what was once notable about it was lost in the 'quake - particularly the tomb of Charles I of Anjou and a receptacle said to contain Frederick II's heart - but the crypt survived, and it features some finely decorated Romanesque capitals. A Byzantine icon, now housed in a chapel next to the presbytery, was reputedly discovered by eleventh-century shepherds in a pond upon which burned three flames; these flames became the symbol of the city. While you're here, take a look at the nearby Museo CAvico on Piazza Nigri (daily 9am-1pm, weekdays except Wed also 5-7pm; free), reached by walking down the Corso to Via Arpi. Incorporated into the side of the building are three portals, one of which - the Porta Grande, with the thoughtful-looking eagles - is all that remains of Frederick II's imperial palace. Duck inside and there are the usual regional archeological finds; the more interesting section on local life and folklore was closed for restoration at the time of writing. If you're interested in such things, the modest Museo di Storia Naturale at Via Bellavia 5 (Tues-Sun: summer 9am-1pm & 5-9pm; winter 4-8pm; L37000/a?¬1.55; take bus #8 or #12 from the train station) is dedicated to local flora and fauna, wth a small collection of Mediterranean shells. That really is it, as far as FA?ggia's sights go, though there are enough green spaces and shopping streets up in the new town to occupy any remaining time - something you might well have, as FA?ggia is an important rail junction on the main Bologna-Lecce and Naples-Bari lines Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections): |
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Italy,
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