If you're flush, Matera's best hotel is the Sassi , right in the heart of the Sasso Barisano district and not far from the duomo at Via San Giovanni Vecchio 89 (tel 0835.331.009; L120,000-150,000/a?¬61.98-77.47), its rooms gouged out of the tufa and affording marvellous views. Other choices in town include the PA­ccolo , a smart, modern place at Via de Sariis 11 (tel 0835.330.201; L120,000-150,000/a?¬61.98-77.47) and the elegant but pricey Albergo Italia, in Via RA­dola (tel 0835.333.561; L150,000-200,000/a?¬77.47-103.29), while the only budget hotel is the very plain Albergo Roma , at Via Roma 62 (tel 0835.333.912; L60,000-90,000/a?¬30.99-46.48).

There is, however, an unofficial youth hostel in two converted guest rooms in the Sassi Hotel , well-sited and with dormitory beds going for L30,000/a?¬15.60 per night: apply at the hotel.There is more choice and better value among Matera's restaurants . The Trattoria Lucana is a good family-run place at Via Lucana 48 (closed Sun & 2 weeks in Sept), or enjoy the view over the sassi at the atmospheric Il Terrazzino , Via San Giuseppe 7 (closed Tues evening). There is a pizzeria in Piazza Sedile, and a much rowdier affair, La Panca , a bit further out from the centre in Via Giolitti (closed Mon), ten minutes' walk from Piazza Vittorio Veneto up Via XX Settembre and Via Annunziatella. There's also a pizzeria, Il Castello , at the Angevin castle above Via Lucana, with outdoor seating in summer (Oct-May closed Wed). Hemingway , in Via RA­dola (closed Mon in winter) is an elegant bar/pasticceria with tables in the square, while in Sasso Barisiano, the CaffA? del Cavaliere in Piazza San Pietro Barisano (closed Mon) - the more populous end of the ravine dwellings - is an evocative place for a coffee or late-night drink.