Merano itself sits on a bend in the River Passirio, a sedate spa town surrounded by a ring of mountains, and, incongruously, by semitropical plants. Mild spring and autumn weather attracted Central Europeans at the turn of the century, and a resort of fin de siecle hotels, neat gardens and promenades evolved. The town's old nucleus is Via dei Portici , running west from the Gothic Duomo and fifteenth-century castle; around it are plenty of shopping streets and the Thermal Centre, which still provides radioactive water cures. It's mainly a retirement resort, but you may decide to stay in Merano for bus connections to the Parco Naturale di Tessa to the north, or the Ortles mountains in the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio to the southwest. If you're here on Easter Monday, head for the hippodrome to the south of the centre, where Tyrolean musicians astride huge Haflinger horses parade around the stadium, with much horn-blowing and flag-waving before the actual races start. In summer, twice-weekly classical concerts are held - some in atmospheric castles. Perhaps more tempting, though, is the grape fest in the third week of October, marked by a procession, concerts and stands groaning under the weight of gastronomic delights.

Buses arrive and leave directly outside the train station on Piazza Stazione, 10 minutes' walk from the centre of town. The tourist office is at Corso Liberta 35 (March-Nov Mon-Fri 9am-6.30pm, Sat 9.30am-6pm, Sun 10am-12.30pm; Dec-Feb Mon-Fri 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm; tel 0473.235.223, www.meraninfo.it ). Three of the least expensive central hotels are: the Santer Klause on Passeirerg, just off Pfarrplatz (tel 0473.234.086; L90,000-120,000/46.48-61.98); Tyrol , closer to the train station at Via XXX Aprile 8 (tel 0473.449.719; L90,000-120,000/46.48-61.98); and Villa Betty , just across the river from the station, on Via Petrarca (tel 0473.233.949; L60,000-90,000/30.99-46.48). The best places to eat in town are the Weinstube Haisrainer , Via dei Portici 100, serving Italian and Tyrolean dishes, and the Weinstube Batzenhausl a few doors along at no. 84. Campers should use Camping Meran, Via Piave 44 (tel 0473.231.249; Easter-Nov): turn right out of the station, cross the river by way of Via Rezia and Via Petrarca, and Via Piave is the third turning on the right.

For hiking advice and information, consult the Club Alpino Italiano office, Via Carlo Wolff, or Merano's Alpine association, the Alpenverien Sudtirol, at Via Galilei 45 (tel 0473.237.134), an alley off Corso Liberta.