Unless you arrive late in the day, it's hardly necessary to stay over in Messina. Still, there are a couple of basic options on Via N. Scotto, an alley on the south side of Piazza della Repubblica, beyond the SAIS office: the Mirage , at no. 3, with all rooms en suite (tel 090.293.8844; L60,000-90,000/a?¬30.99-46.48); and the sprucer Touring , at no. 17 (tel 090.293.8851; L60,000-90,000/a?¬30.99-46.48). If you would prefer something a little slicker, more business-orientated, try the modern Excelsior (tel 090.293.1431; L120,000-150,000/a?¬61.98-77.47), near Piazza Cairoli at Via Maddalena 32. There's a campsite , Il Peloritano (tel 090.348.496), out beyond Punta del Faro on the northern coast; take bus #81 to Rodia from the train station. Messina has a good choice of restaurants , in which you should try the swordfish, freshly caught and a local speciality; May and June are the best months for this, before the water gets too warm. Lungomare da Mario is a good choice, opposite the hydrofoil dock at Via Vittorio Emanuele 108 (closed Wed except Aug); otherwise try Osteria del Campanile , Via Loggia dei Mercanti 9, off Piazza del Duomo (closed Sun), for surprisingly good pasta, or the basic but good Pizzeria del Capitano at Via dei Mille 88, close to Piazza Cairoli (closed Mon). For good panini and other cold snacks , head for Salumeria Nucita , an alimentari at Via Garibaldi 125 (closed Wed evening & Sun). There's an internet point at Via Garibaldi 225 (Mon-Sat 8am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm).