Montepulciano's spiralling, tortuous streets are incredibly steep, and orientation can get confusing. The main entrance to the town - at the lowest point - is the northern gate, the Porta al Prato , terminus of all buses; from here, the Corso climbs south through the town (changing its name from Via di Gracciano to Via di Voltaia, then to Via dell'Opio) until it reaches the southern gate, the Porta delle Farine , where intercity buses also drop off. From here, the main street (Via del Poliziano, then Via di San Donato) continues its coiling path up and around to enter the main Piazza Grande from the south. The stiff climb on foot takes an unrelenting quarter-hour; or you could resort to the LFI town minibuses which run on a loop every 20min, starting and ending at the Porta al Prato (L1400/a?¬0.72). The official tourist office is at the very top of town, Piazza Grande 7 (April-Sept Mon-Sat 10am-1pm & 3-7pm, Sun 9.30am-1pm; Oct-March Mon-Sat 9am-4pm; tel 0578.717.484, www.vinonobiledimontepulciano.it ). Don't be taken in by substandard imitators on lower streets. You can rent mountain bikes for L30,000/a?¬15.49 per day from Cicloposse, Via Matteotti 45 (tel & fax 0578.716.392, biketuscany@bccmp.com ). Parking is free below the eastern walls.

Cheapest accommodation is the three rooms above Ristorante Il Cittino , Vicolo della Via Nuova 2 (tel 0578.757.335; up to L60,000/a?¬30.99); another low-end option is La Terrazza , a pleasant two-star hotel at Via PiA? al Sasso 16 (tel & fax 0578.757.440; L60,000-90,000/a?¬30.99-46.48). The elegant Marzocco is at Piazza Savonarola 18 (tel 0578.757.262, fax 0578.757.530; L120,000-150,000/a?¬61.98-77.47), but it's beaten for location and facilities by Albergo Duomo , Via San Donato 14 (tel & fax 0578.757.473; L150,000-200,000/a?¬77.47-103.29). You might also consult the tourist office about private rooms - most notably those at Il Riccio , Via Talosa 21 (tel 0578.757.713; L90,000-120,000/a?¬46.48-61.98). As a last resort, you could get the bus 8km east to Chianciano Terme , a huge, characterless spa resort with over 200 hotels.