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Eating and drinking
 

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For snacks , the Ferrara , just to the left of the train station in Piazza Giulio Cesare, and the MA?gico , Corso Vittorio Emanuele 244, are reliable options and both also offer bargain lunches, while you can eat good ice cream and snack lunches including arancini at Mazzara , a bar-pasticceria at Via Magliocco 15 (on the corner of Piazza Ungheria). For authentic Sicilian fast food, Antica Focacceria San Francesco , off Corso Vittorio Emanuele at Via A. Paternostro 58, is an old-time place with marble-topped tables. Markets all offer a variety of typically Sicilian takeaway food - boiled octopus, liver-filled bread rolls and cooked artichokes - as well as fruit and vegetables. Best are the BallarA?, in the Albergheria , and the Vucciria, off Via Roma . And there's an Upim supermarket at the corner of Piazza San Domenico and Via Roma. The most popular restaurants get packed at weekends, full of people intent upon a night out rather than just a meal. Recommended restaurant options range from "Inexpensive" (L25,000) to "Moderate" (L25,000-40,000), "Expensive" (L40,000-70,000) and "Very Expensive" (over L70,000) according to the amount one person might expect to pay for a full meal including wine and cover charge.

Bellini , Piazza Bellini. The best bet for alfresco pizzas; outdoor tables are in the shadow of La Martorana church. Service is, however, somewhat slapdash. Closed Tues. Moderate.

CaffAŠ d'Oriente , Piazza Cancellieri. Hidden away at the top of Via Celso (an alley off Via Maqueda near Corso Vittorio Emanuiele), this place swims with North African atmosphere. Couscous and other specialities are served in the square. Closed Mon. Moderate.

Charleston , Piazza Ungheria 30 (tel 091.321.366). For a special treat try Palermo's most celebrated high-class restaurant. Formal and stylish, it serves exquisite cuisine, with regular forays into other Italian regions to supplement its Sicilian specialities. Between mid-June and late September, the restaurant shifts to the beach at Mondello . Reservations advised. Closed Sun. Very Expensive.

Trattoria-Pizzeria Enzo , Via Maurolico 17/19. The city's best bargain for three-course meals - hefty portions and daft prices. Closed Fri. Inexpensive.

Pizzeria Italia , Via Orologio 54 (opposite Teatro MA?ssimo). The best place in town for pizzas, attracting large queues. Closed lunchtime except Sun & also all day Mon from Oct to May. Inexpensive.

Peppino , Piazza Castelnuovo 49. A full restaurant menu is offered alongside some good pizzas. It's touristy, but in a good location. Closed Wed & Aug Moderate.

Trattoria dal Pompiere , Via Bara Olivella 107 (opposite Teatro MA?ssimo). It's a bit seedy, but the pizzas are spot on. Inexpensive.

Primavera , Piazza Bologni 4. Close to the cathedral with outdoor seating, this is a popular trattoria with home-style cooking. Closed Mon. Moderate.

Santandrea , Piazza Sant'Andrea (tel 091.334.999). Chic and popular restaurant a stone's throw from Piazza San Domenico and the Vucciria market. There are no menus, dishes are seasonal and generally delicious. Book early to eat alfresco. Closed Tues & Jan. Expensive.

Stella , Via Alloro 104. Seafood pasta and grilled fish served in the lovely courtyard of this little restaurant in La Kalsa. Closed Sun & Mon lunch in summer, Sun lunch & Mon in winter. Moderate.


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Italy,
Palermo