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Santa Margherita Ligure
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SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE
is a thoroughly attractive, palm-laden small resort tucked into an inlet, replete with grand hotels, garden villas and views of the glittering bay. In the daytime, trendy young Italians cruise the streets or whizz around the harbour on jetskis, while the rest of the family sunbathes or crams the
gelaterie
. Santa Margherita is cheaper to stay in than Portofino and less crowded than Rapallo, and makes a good base both for taking boats and trains up and down the coast and for exploring the countryside on foot. The
train station
overlooks the harbour from the north; behind the waterfront Piazza Veneto 250m south is the
tourist office
, Via XXV Aprile 2 (Mon-Sat 9am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm, Sun 9.30am-12.30pm; tel 0185.287.485,
www.apttigullio.liguria.it
).
The town is also famous for its watersports - the European Dive-In Center, Via Canevaro 2 (tel 0185.293.017, www.europeandc.com ) is one outfit offering waterskiing, sailing and diving; the tourist office has a list of others and there's a handful of places on the harbourfront offering boats for rent. Walking trails cross the Monte di Portofino headland. The best beaches are out of town, accessible by bus: south towards Portofino is Paraggi , while to the north the road drops down to a patch of beach in the bay of San Michele di Pagana . Dedicated art fiends should come to see the Crucifixion by Van Dyck in the church of San Michele, but the beach bars and crystal-clear water are likely to prove stronger incentives to visit. As ever, check in case the hotels insist on half- or full-pension. Best mid-price option is Fasce , Via Bozzo 3 (tel 0185.286.435, fax 0185.283.580, www.hotelfasce.it ; L120,000-150,000/€61.98-77.47) which has pleasantly furnished modern rooms, a roof terrace, free bikes, parking, and an excellent, inexpensive restaurant. Annabella , Via Costasecca 10 (tel 0185.286.531; L90,000-120,000/€46.48-61.98), has attractive bathless rooms; and welcoming Nuova Riviera , Via Belvedere 10 off Piazza Mazzini (tel 0185.287.403, fax 0185.290.083; L90,000-120,000/€46.48-61.98) is on a quiet residential street. Although there are several stuffy grand hotels vying for top-dog status, you may prefer the pleasant, modern suite-style rooms at the seafront Lido Palace , Via Doria 3 (tel 0185.285.821, fax 0185.284.708; L200,000-250,000/€103.29-129.11), which also has private parking.
Trattoria Baicin
, just back from the waterfront park at Via Algeria 5 (closed Mon), is a fine
restaurant
, with a three-course set menu for L30,000/€15.49 and excellent seafood.
Da Pezzi
, Via Cavour 21 (closes 9pm & closed Sat), is a long-established locals' hangout serving basic pasta and grills. On the same street at no. 29 is a good
focacceria
, with opposite it a bar-gelateria that can make up a big salad for L8000/€4.13. Of the many seafront restaurants, one to aim for is
Da Alfredo
, Piazza Martiri 37 (closed Tues), which does good pizzas. Head south behind the squat harbourfront
castello
to reach the old port, where you'll find a clutch of old-style fish restaurants, including
L'Ancora
, Via Maragliano 7 (closed Tues), an excellent-value, mid-priced place; and the swankier
Dei Pescatori
, Via Bottaro 43 (tel 0185.286.747; closed Wed & Thurs). Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections): |
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Italy,
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