Udine has scores of restaurants , including the unpretentious Trattoria all'Allegria , Via Grazzano 18 (closed Mon), which does simple local dishes in the dining room beside the bar. Just north of Piazza Marconi, the Osteria Sbarco dei Pirati , at Via Bartolini 12 (closed Sun), is lively and has a room built out over the rogga , while the excellent Ai Frati , on Piazzetta Antonini (closed Sun), serves local dishes on a shaded terrace. Try the Carnian speciality of cialzons or little ravioli (available Sundays only) at Al Vecchio Stallo , an osteria in a converted stables at Via Viola 7 (closed Wed), just inside the ring road, near Piazzale XXVI Luglio; prices are reasonable, and in summer you can eat in the small inner courtyard, surrounded by greenery and Udine's ancient buildings. South of the old town, the Spaghetteria Da Ciccio , on Via Grazzano (closed Sun), serves famously vast portions at budget prices to an appreciative student crowd. For ice-cream , Il Buon Gelato , in the old town at Via Manin 14b lives up to its name.

Later in the evening, students and young Udinese head for Piazza Matteotti and Via Sarpi. On the latter, Teresina is a livelier enoteca than most, with a good garden, while the apparently unnamned Tapas , at Via Sarpi 1, and Al Capello , two doors down (both closed Sun), pull in a young crowd. The inevitable Irish pub , Caffe Caucigh, at Via Gemona 28, is unsurprisingly popular and has live music on Fridays. Students hangout in the St James and Al Marinaio bars in Via Grazzano, and the Locanda Medievale on Viale Sottomonte is popular for its enterprising mix of cured ham and house music, but nightlife is otherwise limited, especially outside term. In summer, however, there's a busy programme of cultural events - theatre, music, dance - in and around the town, and throughout the Ferroviario arts cinema at Via Cernaia 2 is always worth checking out.