Roughly fifteen minutes' walk southeast of ASPAM, the Kyodokan (Tues-Sun 9.30am-4/5pm; closed hols; A?310) takes a look at the region's history, culture and natural environment. Recent archeological digs have revealed evidence of human occupation since at least 3000 BC, and the museum kicks off with Jomon-period earthenware pots, replica thatched huts and the beautiful, insect-eyed dogu figurines whose ritualistic purpose is still unclear. The most immediately interesting displays, however, are in the top-floor gallery devoted to local folk culture, where vine-woven baskets and rice-straw raincoats rub shoulders with fertility dolls and the distinctive agricultural deity Oshira-sama .

Returning to Aomori Station from the Kyodokan, you pass down Aomori's main shopping street, Shinmachi-dori, with its banks, craft shops and department stores as well as a plethora of trendy clothing stores on the sidestreets. At the west end, in front of the station, turn left and head for the Sunfriend Building, beneath which you'll find a good old-fashioned food market (Mon-Sat 5am-6.30pm), though it's due to be moved to a gargantuan new building right next to the train station. Not surprisingly, a large proportion of stalls are loaded with iridescent fish, hairy crabs, scallops and squids, but among them you'll find neat pyramids of Aomori's other staple product - oversized, paper-wrapped apples. There are dozens of small eateries and sushi shops around, but stick to places with a price list to avoid being overcharged.