Hiroshima's specialities are fresh seafood from the Inland Sea, in particular oysters , which are cultivated on thousands of rafts in Hiroshima Bay, and okonomiyaki . The local tradition is to make these delicious batter pancakes with the diner's choice of separate layers of cabbage, beansprouts, meat, fish and noodles, unlike in Osaka, where all the ingredients are mixed up - don't leave Hiroshima without sampling one. Where the reviews below list a telephone number, it's a good idea to book.

Andersen , 7-1 Hondori. With its ground-floor deli, bakery and cafA© and second-floor Swedish-style restaurants - including the classy Midnight Sun , which serves free champagne at its weekend brunch buffets - this is a true gourmet's paradise. Ideal for breakfast, lunch or an early dinner. Daily except Wed 10am-8pm.

Geishu , 2F, Hiroshima Kokusai Hotel , 3-13 Tate-machi. Pricey, but one of the best places to enjoy beautifully presented local seafood dishes. On the top floor of the same hotel you'll find the revolving restaurant Le Train Blue , worth dropping by for a romantic evening cocktail. Geishe Mon-Sat 11am-11pm, Sun & hols 11am-10pm; Le Train Blue Mon-Sat 11.30am-midnight, Sun & hols 11.30am-11pm.

Kissui , 15F, Hotel Sunroute , 3-3-1 Ote-machi (tel 082/249-3600). Elegant shabu shabu (beef) restaurant overlooking the Peace Park, where the waitresses wear pale-green kimono. Dinner is very pricey, but the A?1800 lunch is a much more affordable option. Daily 11.30am-2pm & 5-9.30pm (last orders 8.30pm).

Kuimonoya , 2F, Apple 2 Building, 3-15 Ebisu-machi. A photo menu helps simplify the ordering at this trendy Southeast Asian restaurant with a casual atmosphere. Daily 11.30am-2pm & 5.30-midnight (2pm on Sat).

Namuche Bazar , 2F, K Building, 2-22 Fukuro-machi (tel 082/246-1355). Oriental trinkets decorate this compact mukokuseki (no nationality) restaurant, which serves dishes like Spanish omelette alongside Thai salads and Japanese-style beef stew. There's an English menu and they cater for vegetarians. Daily 5pm-midnight.

Nanak , 2-2 Fukuro-machi. Popular Indian chain restaurant with reasonably restrained decor, and waiters wearing orange turbans. Curries to suit all tastes and a decent lunch special for A?880. Daily 11am-10pm.

Okonomi-mura , 5-13 Shin-tenchi. Behind the Parco department store, in the heart of the lively entertainment district, this building has 28 small okonomiyaki stalls crammed into three floors. You're unlikely to go wrong at any of them, but Itsukushima , the first stall you see on emerging from the elevator on the fourth floor, is reputed to be one of the best in town. Daily 11am-9pm.

Pizzeria Mario Expresso , 7-9 Fukuro-machi. The more casual of the two Mario operations, this lively pizzeria has outside tables and overlooks a small park. A nice spot to chill out over a coffee and dessert if you don't fancy a full meal. Daily 11am-11pm.

Ristorante Mario , 4-11 Nakaji-macho (tel 082/248-4956). Authentic and deservedly popular Italian restaurant in the ivy-clad mock-Tuscan villa beside the Peace Bridge. As usual, the set lunches for A?1200 and A?1800 offer the best deal, but it's not too expensive for dinner and they have half-bottles of wine. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm & 5-11.30pm (last orders 10.30pm).

Suishin , 6-7 Tatemachi (tel 082/247-4411). Long-established fish restaurant that serves dishes in the local style, in particular kamameshi (rice casseroles). Daily except Wed 11.30am-10pm.

Tokugawa , 5F, Tohgeki Building, Ebisu-machi. Cook up your own okonomiyaki for around A?1000 at this restaurant, whose entrance is halfway down the covered arcade running behind Tenmaya department store. Has an English menu and a bright, family-orientated atmosphere. Daily 10am-10.30pm.

Volks , Hondori. At the west end of the main shopping arcade, this inexpensive chain steak restaurant is also a good choice for vegetarians because of its all-you-can-eat salad bar. Daily 10.30am-10.30pm.