Arriving at Kumamoto airport , roughly 15km northwest, limousine buses shuttle into town in roughly one hour (A?670), stopping at Shimo-tori and the Kumamoto Kotsu Centre before ending up at the train station. Most long-distance buses terminate at the Kotsu Centre, though a few continue to Kumamoto Station, while buses from the ferry port, Kumamoto Shin-ko, stop at the station first.

Kumamoto's helpful tourist information service (daily 9am-5.30pm; tel & fax 096/352-3743) occupies a desk inside the train station's central exit, and there's also a small branch office in the airport (daily 8am-8.30pm). English-language staff at both offices can give you a number of useful maps and guides, and help with hotel reservations.

Getting around central Kumamoto is made fairly easy by a tram system which covers most sights. There are just two lines (#2 and #3), both of which run from the eastern suburbs and through the city centre before splitting near the Kotsu Centre. Line 2 then heads off south to Kumamoto Station, while Line 3 loops north round the castle. Trams run every five to ten minutes between approximately 6.30am and 11pm, with fares ranging from A?130 to A?200 depending on the distance travelled; take a numbered ticket on entry and pay the driver according to the fare-display board as you get off. Alternatively, if you're moving about a lot, you can buy a one-day pass ( ichi-nichi jyoshaken ; A?500) at the information centre, in the Kotsu Centre or on the tram itself. This pass also covers Shiei buses within the central zone; however, as there are four bus companies in Kumamoto and it's not immediately obvious which are Shiei buses , it's best to stick to trams. You can change from one tram line to another at Karashima-cho, where the lines split; if you haven't got a day pass, ask for a transfer ticket ( norikae kippu ) to avoid paying twice.