Banks and exchange The Ryukyu Bank branch in the airport arrival lobby (Mon-Fri 9am-4pm) exchanges several major currencies (cash or traveller's cheques); when they're closed the central information counter can change up to US$50 cash. The post office cash machine (Mon-Fri 9am-9pm, Sat & Sun 9am-5pm) in the airport also accepts foreign cash and credit cards, as does the one at the central post office where you can exchange money over the counter, from 9am-4pm on weekdays only. Also in Naha itself, banks along Kokusai-dori have foreign exchange desks, or try the main branch of the Okinawa Bank (north of Palette Kumoji), or the Ryukyu Bank (west on the same road). To withdraw cash on a Visa card apply to the Ryukyu Bank or Okinawa Bank; Kaiho Bank handles Mastercard transactions.

Bookshops Bunkyo Tosho on the seventh floor of Palette Kumoji has a limited selection of English-language books and magazines. You can also try Kokusai-dori's Tower Records in the OPA building where you'll find few English-language magazines.

Car and bike rental Nippon Rent-a-car (tel 098/868-4554), Japaren (tel 0120-413900) and Toyota (tel 098/857-0100) all have representatives in both Naha airport and the city centre. You can rent motorbikes and scooters at Helmet Shop SEA, 3-15-50 Makishi (tel 098/864-5116), west of Kokusai-dori, from A?1700 for 3hr, while the International Youth Hostel has mountain bikes at A?1600 per day.

Consulates United States, 2564 Nishihara, Urasoe City (tel 098/876-4211).

Ferries The RKK Line (tel 098/868-1126) operates ferries to Osaka, Fukuoka and Kagoshima. Oshima Unyu (tel 098/861-1886), sails to Tokyo, Osaka, Kobe, Miyazaki, Kagoshima and islands in the Satsunan chain. Marix Line (tel 098/862-8774) specializes in slow boats through the Satsunan islands to Kagoshima. Arimura Sangyo (tel 098/860-1980) boats stop in Naha on their way from Osaka to Taiwan, and also call at Miyako and Ishigaki. Most of these ferries depart from Naha Shin-ko, north of town on the #101 bus route, but a few use Naha Port (bus #24), so check when you buy your tickets.

Festivals Shuri-jo is the venue for traditional Ryukyu New Year celebrations (Jan 2-3) and the Shuri-jo Festival (Nov 1-3), featuring a parade of Ryukyu-dynasty clothing, dance displays and other performing arts. The Naha Festival (Oct 10) includes the world's largest tug-of-war - using a rope 180m long and 1.5m in diameter - as well as a 10,000-strong Eisa folk dance parade down Kokusai-dori.

Hospitals and medical care In central Naha, there's the Izumizaki Hospital, 1-3-8 Kumoji (tel 098/853-3134). If you need an English-speaking doctor, however, your best bet is the Adventist Medical Centre (tel 098/946-2833), 4-11-1 Kohagura, on Route 29 northeast of Naha.

Internet Internet Conet next to the Pacific Hotel Okinawa , around 1km west of the bus terminal, is open Mon-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 11am-8pm and charges A?500 per hour. There are also single computers with Internet connections at both Okinawa Guest House (A?100 per hr) and Hotel Sun Palace (A?500 for 30min) .

Immigration office To renew your visa apply to the Naha Immigration Office, 1-15-15 Higawa (tel 098/832-4185), on Route 221 southeast of Kokusai-dori.

Police 1-2-9 Izumuzaki (tel 098/836-0110).

Post offices Naha Central Post Office, located on the south side of town around 500m down Naha Higashi Bypass from the Meiji Bridge across the Kokuba-gawa, accepts poste restante. For ordinary services, you'll find a sub-post office in Palette Kumoji and another at the north end of Kokusai-dori beside the Nansei Kanko Hotel .

Shopping Kokusai-dori and the Ichiba-dori arcades are the places to trawl for souvenirs. Shops specializing in local crafts include the high-quality Okinawa Busan Centre (daily 9am-7pm), northeast of Palette Kumoji, and the smaller Okinawa Craft Shop (daily 10am-8pm), behind Mitsukoshi. Shuri-jo's Suimuikan also has a decent craft shop.

Taxis Okito Kotsu (tel 098/946-5656) has English-speaking drivers, or try the Okinawa-ken Taxi Association (tel 098/855-1344).

Travel agents For domestic travel, phone JTB on tel 098/864-1321 or Okinawa Tourist tel 098/862-1111. The latter can also help with international tickets, as can HIS on tel 098/868-1133.