Jan 15 Yama-yaki (Grass-burning festival). On a winter evening at 6pm, priests from Kofuku-ji set fire to the grass on Wakakusa-yama - watched by a few hundred firemen. The festival commemorates the settlement of a boundary dispute between Nara's warrior monks.

March 1-14 O-Taimatsu and O-Mizutori (Torch lighting and water drawing). A 1200-year-old ceremony which commemorates a priest's dream about Kannon drawing water from a holy well. The climax is on the night of March 13. At around 6.30pm priests on the second-floor veranda light huge torches and scatter sparks over the assembled crowds to protect them from evil spirits. At 2am the priests collect water from the well, after which they whirl more lighted flares round in a frenzied dance.

May 11-12 Takigi No . Outdoor performances of No dramas by firelight. At Kofuku-ji.

September Uneme Matsuri . Every September, on the night of the harvest moon, the Uneme Matsuri takes place at the Sausawa-ike Pond. The festival is a dedication to Uneme, a court lady who drowned herself in the pond after losing the favour of the emperor. At around 7pm two dragon-bowed boats bearing costumed participants and gagaku musicians commemorate the lady's death in multicoloured splendour. The festival lasts until 9.30pm.

Early to mid-Oct Shika-no-Tsunokiri (Antler cutting). You might want to give Sundays a miss during October. This is the season when the deer in Nara-koen are wrestled to the ground and have their antlers sawn off by Shinto priests. It all takes place in the Roku-en deer pen, near Kasuga Taisha. Check locally for exact dates.

Dec 17 On-matsuri . At around midday a grand costume parade sets off from the prefectural offices to Kasuga Wakamiya-jinja, stopping on the way for various ceremonies. It ends with outdoor performances of No and various courtly dances.