The tourist information desks at Narita Airport are the places to head for maps, pamphlets and hotel bookings, if you're just arriving in the country. Make sure you also ask for the Narita Welcome Card , which comes with a useful information pack and offers discounts at a range of local tourist attractions, restaurants and accommodation. You can also get the card from the TIC in Tokyo and the Narita Tourist Pavilion (Tues-Sun: June-Sept 10am-6pm; Jan-May & Oct-Dec 9am-5pm), on Omotesando in Narita.

The town has plenty of accommodation to cater for the groups of pilgrims. Upmarket choices include the ANA (tel 0476/33-1311; A?15,000-20,000) and Holiday Inn (tel 0476/32-1234; A?15,000-20,000), both of which have free shuttle buses from the airport, as does the rather swanky Skycourt Narita Youth Guesthouse (tel 0478/73-6211; A?3000-5000) - more of a cheap business hotel than hostel. While fine for late night arrivals at the airport, none of these are convenient for sightseeing in the town.

If you want to stay in central Narita, good-value tatami rooms are available at the friendly Ohgiya Ryokan (tel 0476/22-1161, fax 24-1663; A?10,000-15,000), with single rooms priced from A?6500. Meals and en-suite rooms cost extra, but you pay nothing more for the rooms overlooking the lovely garden with a carp pond. The ryokan is a ten-minute walk from the station towards the temple; take the lefthand turn where the road forks at the traffic island. The best budget option is Kirinoya Ryokan (tel 0476/22-0724; A?7000-10,000), five minutes' east of the main entrance to Naritasan Shinsho-ji. This spotless Japanese-style establishment is described by its English-speaking owner Katsumata-san as a "museum hotel", and is crammed with his samurai family's heirlooms, including gold-plated suits of armour, swords, muskets, and even a palanquin. Singles cost around A?5000 and there's a cafA© and a small carp pond to gaze at from the communal bathroom.

You'll find plenty of decent restaurants , particularly along Omotesando. Kikuya , opposite the Tourist Pavilion, and World Cook , an Indian restaurant, closer to the stations, are both reasonably priced and have English menus. The Barge Inn , also on Omotesando, is a British-style pub popular with local expats and visiting flight crews.