Banks Bank of Tokyo Mitsubishi, Odori, Nishi 3, changes all major currencies, as does the Odori post office one block west, and the central post office east of Sapporo Station. Mitsukoshi, Marui and Gobankan Seibu department stores all have foreign exchange counters, though only Mitsukoshi changes sterling.

Bookshops Maruzen, Minami 1, Nishi 4 (Tues-Sun 10am-7pm), with a wide range of English-language books and magazines on its fourth floor, has the edge over Kinokuniya (daily except Wed 10am-7pm), opposite the TV tower on Odori, Nishi 1.

Car rental Try Eki Rent-a-car (tel 011/241-0931), Nippon Rent-a-car (tel 011/746-0919) or Orix Rent-a-car (tel 011/241-0543).

Consulates Australia, Kita 1, Nishi 3 (tel 011/242-4381); China, Minami 13, Nishi 23 (tel 011/563-5563); Russia, Minami 14, Nishi 12 (tel 011/561-3171); USA, Kita 1, Nishi 28 (tel 011/641-1115).

Emergencies The main police station is at Kita 1, Nishi 5 (tel 011/241-3201). In an absolute emergency, contact the Foreign Advisory Service on 011/211-2105.

Hospital Sapporo City General Hospital, Kita 11, Nishi 13 (tel 011/726-2211).

Internet access Dub Internet Desk (tel 011/738-5552) at Kita 7, Nishi 2 on the fourth floor of the Sankyo building or Vitamin PC (tel 011/200-6948) at Minami 3 Nishi 6 on the fourth floor of the Ark 36 building, upstairs from Miss Jamaica . Vitamin PC noon-8pm; A?350 an hour with free coffee.

Laundry Motoi Yasunobu coin laundry (daily 8am-10pm) is at Minami 2, Higashi 4.

Post office The central post office is at Kita 6, Higashi 1, two blocks east of the JR station (Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 9am-12.30pm). There's also a branch at Odori, Nishi 2 (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm).

Shopping Sapporo has branches of all of Japan's top department stores, including Mitsukoshi, Seibu, Sogo and Tokyu. The huge Robinsons in Susukino is worth rooting around, as is the Tanuki Koji, the covered shopping arcade that stretches for six blocks across Minami 3, which was once the city's main shopping street. If you are heading out for hiking or camping in Hokkaido's national parks, ICI Sports ( Ishii Supotsu ), at Minami 2, Nishi 4 on Tanuki arcade, has outdoor gear, topographical maps and knowledgeable staff.

Taxis The main rank is at the south exit of Sapporo Station. To book a taxi (A?100 extra charge), call the Taxi Association on 011/892-6000).

Travel agency The main JTB office where you'll find English-speakers is in the Nissei Building at Kita 3, Nishi 4 (tel 011/241-6201).