Bazoku , Minami 2, Nishi 5, Sanyu Building. Friendly basement bar with occasional live music. Beers start at A?300 and the Tex-Mex food comes in generous portions.

Chapotin , Minami 4, Nishi 5. Serves up an interesting combination of "little bit old Cuban music", small brewery sakes from around Japan, and pasta and other Western dishes. Has outdoor tables on summer nights.

Gaijin Bar , Minami 2, Nishi 7. The sign outside translates as "nest of delinquent gaijin " but everyone knows this very casual second-floor joint by its shorter name. Serves a similar range of beers as Mugishutei , but at cheaper prices and with no cover charge, and has a 90min all-you-can-drink for A?1500. If you get hungry, the same building houses Saltimbanco Baobab (tel 011/272-1039), which serves ostrich steak for A?1500 and other African-style dishes. Mon-Thurs 6pm-1am, Fri & Sat 6pm-3am.

Habana , Nishi 5, Minami 3, The originator of the currently popular Cuban theme, Havana has moved into spacious new digs on the 2nd and 3rd floor above the Tanuki Arcade, dishing out spicy chicken and rice entrees to go with its lively Latin American music, and holding occasional salsa parties.

Janbo , Minami 5, Nishi 4. Across the street from Daruma , this tiny yakitori bar has a friendly, rock-loving owner who serves up succulent sticks of grilled chicken to nibble with your beer. Mon-Sat 8pm-3am.

King Xhmu , Minami 7, Nishi 4. The exterior of this club (pronounced "King Mu") resembles a misplaced Mayan colossus, while the interior is a high-tech Indiana Jones adventure. Generally features thumping techno music; entry hovers around A?4000, although it's only A?1000 on Mon, Thurs and Fri if you're 23 or over. Entrance charge includes two drinks.

Miss Jamaica , Minami 3, Nishi 6. Drinks are around A?600 each at this funky Caribbean bar with a jukebox of rare gems and at least thirty different kinds of rum. The menu includes Jamaican curry and rice for A?900. Internet cafA© Vitamin PC is on the fourth floor of the same building .

Mugishutei , Minami o, Nishi 5, Onda Building, B1. Convivial basement bar at the quiet end of Susukino, decorated with 5000 beer cans and bottles from around the world. Over 250 different types of ale are served - plus food (including fish and chips). The owner, Phred, is a fixture of the Susukino scene who also owns the Gaijin Bar .

Rad Brothers 1 , Minami 7, Nishi 3, Mitsuwa Building. Beers are A?600 each at this uncluttered bar on the corner of a block in Susukino. The clientele is young and rowdy, but this is a better bet than Rad Brothers 2 , at Minami 5, Nishi 5. Both branches open daily 6pm-6am.

Susukino Reien , Minami 4, Nishi 3. On the eighth floor of the Green Building, Sapporo's most bizarre bar takes the graveyard as its theme. Shrunken heads dangle from the ceiling and the staff perform conjuring tricks.