If you've never been to Africa before, flying into Mombasa and merely driving through the suburbs to your hotel throws you into the place more quickly than arriving in Nairobi's cosmopolitan embrace. You may even experience some level of culture shock from the poverty, the noise and the up-frontness of everything, but it's not a shock that will last long.

Getting around Mombasa is best, and easily done, on foot. With no bus services, city transport consists of matatus, which run from the GPO to Nyali Bridge, Tudor Docks and Likoni ferry, or taxis, a ride in which to anywhere in town shouldn't cost more than Ksh 100-200.

The city's tourist information office, operated by the Mombasa and Coast Tourist Association, is on Moi Avenue, near the Tusks (Mon-Fri 8am-noon & 2-4.30pm, Sat 8am-noon; tel 011/225428, fax 228208). Although offering little in material terms (apart from brochures and an averagely useful map of Mombasa for Ksh200), the staff are helpful, and can advise you on a range of transport and accommodation matters.