The transport options available if organizing your own safari meet every taste and budget. One possibility not often considered is cycling . Although the big game parks are out of reach, several of the smaller ones allow bikes (Hell's Gate at Naivasha, Lake Bogoria Reserve, Kakamega Forest) and there's a lot of wonderful cycling country besides. The cheapest Chinese and Indian three-speed machines are widely available, as well as large numbers of cheap mountain bikes (from around Ksh8500), and a few lightweight models with good specification. These can be good value, but you'll have trouble reselling. For bicycle rental , contact Bike Treks: it costs Ksh1800 per day, but they prefer you to use them for longer treks to reduce the risk of theft in Nairobi.

Having a car allows the independence to set your own itinerary and explore at your own pace. If you're looking to buy a vehicle in Kenya, scan the classified ads in the papers or visit the stretch of Langata Road opposite Nyayo National Stadium on a Sunday morning, where there's a regular second-hand vehicle sale.

If you're in the market to charter a plane , a few small operators, mostly based at Wilson Airport (tel 02/501941-3), will oblige. It's not as outrageously expensive as you might assume and the opportunities for photography and seeing the country are without equal. The current standard rate for a Cessna 182 (two passengers) is around $1.60 per mile (1.6km) -the minimum mileage is usually 500 miles (800km or three hours' flying) for $750 - though that takes you a very long way. You shouldn't be charged for dA©marrage (the plane parked on the ground), if you're coming back the same day.