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Air ambulance If you're worried about medical evacuation from the wilds, contact: AAR Health Services tel 02/715318-26; or the Flying Doctors Service (Amref) tel 02/717374, fax 336886.

Airlines, internal Most airline offices are open Mon-Fri 8am or 8.30am-1pm & 2-4.30pm or 5pm, Sat 8.30am-1pm. Aircraft Leasing Services tel 02/500156; Airkenya tel 02/501421-3, bookings tel 02/6605745, fax 602951; Blue Bird Aviation tel 02/602338; Boskovic Air Charters Ltd tel 02/501210, fax 609619, [email protected]; Eagle Aviation tel 02/822924, fax 602338; East African Air Charters tel 02/504731, fax 502358; Fuf Aviation tel 02/505541; Sarman Aviation tel 02/606416; Trackmark tel 02/501263, fax 504907.

Airlines, international For opening hours see "Airlines, internal" above. Note that Kenya Airways operates jointly with Ethiopian Airlines and Air France. Aero Zambia, ground floor, International House, Mama Ngina St tel 02/246519; Air India, 3rd floor, Jeevan Bharati Building, Harambee Ave tel 02/313300; Air Madagascar, 1st floor, Hilton Building, City Hall Way tel 02/225286; Air Malawi, International House, Mama Ngina St tel 02/248265; Air Mauritius, mezzanine, International House, Mama Ngina St tel 02/229166; Air Tanzania, ground floor, Chester House, Koinange St tel 02/336224; Air Zimbabwe, ground floor, Chester House, Koinange St tel 02/339524; Aeroflot, Corner House, Mama Ngina St tel 02/220746; Balkan Bulgarian Airlines, 2nd floor, Royal Card Centre, Mpaka Rd, Westlands tel 02/445900; British Airways, International House, Mama Ngina St tel 02/244430; Cameroon Airlines, 9th floor, Rehani House, Kenyatta Ave tel 02/224743; Egyptair, Hilton Building, City Hall Way tel 02/226821; El Al, 9th floor, KCS House, Mama Ngina St tel 02/228123; Emirates, 20th floor, View Park Towers, Loita St tel 02/211978; Ethiopian Airlines, Bruce House, Muindi Mbingu St tel 02/330837; Gulf Air, ground floor, International House, Mama Ngina St tel 02/211986; Kenya Airways, 5th floor, Barclays Plaza, Loita St tel 02/229291; KLM, Barclays Plaza, Loita Street tel 02/210771; Olympic Airlines, 12th floor, Ambank House, University Way tel 02/338026; Pakistan International Airlines, ICEA Building, Banda St/Kenyatta Ave tel 02/333901; Royal Swazi National Airways, 4th floor, KCS House, Mama Ngina St tel 02/210670; Saudi Arabian Airlines, mezzanine II, Anniversary Towers, University Way tel 02/240606; South African Airways, 1st floor, Lonrho House, Kaunda St tel 02/227486; Swissair, Ambank House, University Way tel 02/250288.

American Express Express Travel Group, Bruce House, Standard St PO Box 40433 is the main walk-in office (tel 02/215916, fax 334825). There is also one at the Hilton . They both provide all the usual services and they'll hold card-holders' mail.

Artists' materials Sciencescope, Victor House, by the Nation Centre, Kimathi St (tel 02/210741 or 447920), is the place for professional oils, acrylics, pastels, paper etc. They have a branch at the Yaya Centre, Hurlingham.

Banks There are branches of Barclays everywhere, most with ATM cash machines and efficient, helpful service, but only Standard Chartered Bank, which also has ATMs, has more abysmal exchange rates. The best bank rates are offered by Stanbic Bank, Stanbic Bank Building, Kenyatta Ave, followed by African Banking Corporation (ABC), Koinange St (also at Woodvale Grove, Westlands). The best overall rates are posted by the numerous competing forex bureaux found throughout the city, whose rates differ only by one percent or so. Worth a mention, though, is the Central Bureau de Change on Wabera St, their rates are one of the best for sterling traveller's cheques (no commission) and they don't ask for proof of purchase. Many of the exchange bureaux are little more than a desk and armed askari guard; some don't accept traveller's cheques (or require your proof of purchase), others refuse plastic, but their service is usually fast. If you're worried security-wise about being seen to change money, the Commercial Bank of Africa inside the Hilton Hotel (Mon-Fri 1-8pm, Sat 8am-8pm) is out of sight, but has bad rates. There are no banks open on Sundays except the exchange bureaux at the airport, though the larger hotels may oblige with their facilities. Western Union transfers are received by Postbank, Postbank House, Market Lane (tel 02/651696, fax 210593; Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm, Sat 8.30-11am) - get there early as it could take up to three hours, Fridays are less busy.

Bike shops Cycle Land, Moi Ave tel 02/223955; Cycle Mart & Exchange Ltd, Kijabe St tel 02/223459; Gitonga Cycle Dealers, OTC Building, Landhies Rd tel 02/214697; Kenya Cycle Mart, Moi Ave tel 02/223417; Sadar Singh Vohra Ltd, River Rd, next to Evamay Lodge tel 02/222715; Westlands Cycle Mart, Old Uchumi Building, opposite The Mall, Westlands tel 02/448055.

Books Good downtown bookshops, carrying wide selections of coffee-table books, maps of Kenya and the major game parks, and imported paperbacks, include: Westland Sundries/Nation Bookshop, Kenyatta Ave (entrance also from the Stanley Hotel ); Bookpoint, Loans House, Moi Ave; Premier Bookshop, corner of Tom Mboya St and Ronald Ngala St (who have the widest range of maps); Prestige, Prudential Assurance Building, Mama Ngina St (also open Sun 9.30am-12.30pm); and Primrose Sundries, 20th Century Plaza, Mama Ngina St. The Textbook Centre, Kijabe St (tel 02/330340-5, fax 225779, [email protected]) behind the Norfolk Hotel , with an excellent branch at the Sarit Centre, Westlands (tel 02/747405), also has a good choice, as well as stationery and artists' materials. In River Road district, you'll find a cluster of bookshops at and around the junction of Lagos Rd and Latema Rd. For a good second-hand selection, try Prestige, or the Book Stop, Yaya Centre, Hurlingham. East African Educational Publishers have their sales office on Mpakard St (tel 02/4447000).

Bus companies The following terminals and offices are marked on either the "Commercial Centre and River Road Area" or "Central Nairobi" maps. Companies not listed operate from the Country Bus Station ("Machakos Airport"). Akamba Bus, Lagos Rd tel 02/340430 or 221779; Arusha Express, Cross Rd/River Rd tel 02/212083 or 338322; Busscar, Duruma Rd/Kumasi Rd tel 02/229662; Coast Bus, Accra Rd/Duruma Rd tel 02/214819; Colobus Shuttle, Village Market tel 02/581726, [email protected]; Cross Road Travellers, Cross Rd tel 02/331531; Crossline, River Rd tel 02/245358; Daily Peugeot Service (DPS), Dubois Rd tel 02/242824; Davanu Shuttle, Windsor House, University Way tel 02/222002; Eastern Express (no phone) from the Country Bus Station; Goldline, top of Accra Rd/Cross Rd tel 02/225279 or 221963; KBS Stagecoach, KBS bus station, Mfangano St tel 02/246047; Kensilver Express, Dubois Rd tel 02/221839 or 240218; Mombasa Liners, Accra Rd/River Rd tel 02/241564; Mwingi Coach, opposite Eastleigh KBS depot, General Waruinge St tel 02/765763; Sunbird Services (no phone), from the Country Bus Station; Transluxe, opposite OTC (behind the KBS bus station), Temple Rd tel 02/220059.

Camping equipment Atul's, Biashara St (Mon-Fri 9am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm, Sat 9am-3pm; tel 02/228064), is the only place where you can rent outdoor equipment - especially useful if you're going to Mount Kenya - but the prices can seem excessive to budget travellers (tent rental from Ksh320 per day). They are also fully equipped for repair jobs. On the same street, but on the other side of Muindi Mbingu St, Kenya Canvas Ltd (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 8am-1pm; tel 02/333509) sells tents (from Ksh9000), mosquito nets (Ksh375) and other equipment. Much cheaper than either for basic tents (from Ksh4000), sleeping bags (Ksh3000 and up), kipmats (Ksh800), cooking stoves and gas bottles is the Nakumatt Centrepoint supermarket on Kenyatta Ave, between Koinange St and Muindi Mbuingi St (Mon-Sat 8.30am-8.30pm, Sun 10am-7pm).

Car rental Avis, College House, University Way, tel 02/336704, fax 339111, [email protected]; Budget/Payless, Hilton Building, Simba St, tel 02/223581-2, airport tel 02/822370, fax 223584, [email protected]; Central, ground floor, Fedha Towers, Standard St, tel 02/222888, fax 339666; Concorde, Agip Garage, Waiyaki Way, Westlands, tel 02/448953, fax 448135; Crossways, Banda St, tel 02/220848; Eurodollar, Kenya Woodvale Grove, Westlands, tel 02/440333, fax 552857, airport tel 02/432069, [email protected]; Europcar Express, Travel Group, Bruce House, Standard St, tel 02/334722-7, fax 334825, [email protected]; Hertz/UTC, corner of Kaunda St and Muindi Mbingu St tel 02/248777, fax 216871, airport tel 02/822339, [email protected]; Kenia Tours and Safaris, 4th floor, Jubilee Insurance House, Kaunda St/Wabera St, tel 02/223699, out of hours tel 02/222513, fax 217671, ; Let's Go Travel, Caxton House, Standard St, tel 02/214713, fax 336890; Pola's Car Hire, 1st floor, NCM House, Tom Mboya St, tel 02/334207, fax 337933; Rasuls, Butere Rd, Industrial Area (taxi to Mater Misericordiae Hospital), tel 02/558234, fax 540341; Southern Cross Safaris, Stanley Hotel , Standard St, tel 02/225255, fax 216553, [email protected]; Suntrek Tours & Travel, Swan Court, off Muthithi Rd, Westlands tel 02/751349, fax 742055, [email protected]; Venture Africa, 3rd floor, City House, corner of Standard St and Wabera St, tel 02/219511, fax 219263, [email protected].

Car repairs Undugu Motor Garage, near Maridadi Fabrics by the city stadium roundabout (tel 02/76563), is reliable.

Contraceptives Oral contraceptives are available from the Family Planning Clinic, 5th floor, Phoenix House, Standard St (tel 02/335775). Condoms are sold in any supermarket or pharmacy.

Dentist Dr Peter Griffiths, Kolloh Rd, Lavington tel 02/448211. Pager 717717 no.283. Up-to-date equipment.

Doctors Dr Sheth, Westlands tel 02/441176 or 582040. Alternatively, ask your embassy for a list. For blood tests, Alliance Health Services, Pioneer House, 5th floor, Moi Ave (tel 02/313339) is very good. A malaria check costs about Ksh600. If you prefer homeopathic treatment, consult Dr R. J. S. Panesar, Diamond Plaza, High Ridge, near Ma Roche's Guest House (tel 02/746772). A recommended chiropractor is Dr Thomas Adagala, mornings downtown at 1st floor, APDC House, Lagos Rd (tel 02/330782), afternoons at Vanga Rd, Lavington (tel 02/560078).

Email and internet services There are internet cafAŠs practically on every street in Nairobi and most of them are reasonably cheap, though slow and unreliable. If you have a Hotmail account, it's probably better to open an account with another server for the duration of your trip; Hotmail is extremely slow in Kenya. One of the most reliable and fastest places to send email is Safari Surf CafAŠ, IPS Building, bottom of Kaunda St, near Kimathi St (Ksh4 per min). Browse Internet Access in Norwich Union House, 4th floor, opposite the Hilton , is also reasonably cheap, but it can be slow and over crowded (Ksh25 per 15min). Christos Internet CafAŠ, Phoenix House, 2nd floor, Kenyatta Ave, is smaller than Browse and the staff are friendly and helpful, but can also be slow - Ksh4 per min or Ksh1500 monthly membership which entitles you to 15min daily internet access). Other places include: the Hilton 's business centre, 2nd floor, Hilton Hotel (Mon-Fri 7am-8pm, Sat 8am-4pm; [email protected]; emails Ksh70 to receive; internet Ksh500 per 30min); Cyber Safaris at Simmers Restaurant , corner of Kenyatta Ave and Muindi Mbingu St (emails Ksh100 per 15min; internet Ksh400 per hr); Cybervore Internet CafAŠ at Carnivore (Mon-Fri 10.30am-11pm, Sat & Sun 11am-11pm; email/internet Ksh150 per 15min; Ksh10 per page printed; Cyberc@fe, Bruce House, Kaunda St (Mon-Fri 8.15am-6pm, Sat 8.15am-1.30pm, [email protected]; email Ksh65 to send/receive; internet Ksh300 per hr).

Embassies, high commissions and consulates Australia, ICIPE House, Riverside Drive, off Chiromo Road, PO Box 47718 tel 02/445034-9; Austria, 2nd floor, City House, Standard/Wabera Street, PO Box 30560 tel 02/228281-2; Belgium, Muthaiga/Lumuru Road, Parklands, PO Box 30461 tel 02/741564-7; Burundi, 14th floor, Development House, Moi Avenue, PO Box 44439 tel 02/335973; Canada, 6th floor, Comcraft House, Haile Selassie Avenue, PO Box 30481 tel 02/214804; China, Woodlands Road, off State House Road, Hurlingham, PO Box 30508 tel 02/722559; Congo, 12th floor, Electricity House, Harambee Avenue, PO Box 48106 tel 02/229771-2; Cyprus, 5th floor, Eagle House, Kimathi Street, PO Box 30739 tel 02/220881; Czech Republic, Embassy House, Harambee Avenue, PO Box 30204 tel 02/210494 or 223448; Denmark, 11th floor, HFCK Building, Kenyatta Avenue/Koinange Street, PO Box 40412 tel 02/331088-90; Egypt, 7th floor, Harambee Plaza, Uhuru Highway/Haile Selassie Avenue, PO Box 30285 tel 02/250764; Eritrea, 2nd floor, New Rehema House, Rhapta Road, PO Box 38651 tel 02/443163; Ethiopia, State House Avenue, Nairobi Hill, PO Box 45198 tel 02/723027; Finland, 2nd floor, International House, Mama Ngina Street, PO Box 30379 tel 02/334777; France, 9th floor, Barclays Plaza, Loita Street, PO Box 41784 tel 02/339978; Germany, 8th floor, Williamson House, 4th Ngong Avenue, PO Box 30180 tel 02/712527-8; Greece, 13th B floor, Nation Centre, Kimathi Street, PO Box 30543 tel 02/340722; Hungary, Ole Odume Road, off Argwings Kodhek Road, PO Box 61146 tel 02/560060; Iceland, Bendera Lane, off Spring Valley Road, PO Box 45000 tel 02/521487; India, 2nd floor, Jeevan Bharati Building, Harambee Avenue, PO Box 30074 tel 02/222566-7; Ireland, Owashika Road, Lavington PO Box 30659, tel 02/578043; Israel, Bishops Road, PO Box 30354 tel 02/724021-2; Italy, 9th floor, International House, Mama Ngina Street, PO Box 30107 tel 02/337777; Japan, 15th floor, ICEA Building, Kenyatta Avenue, PO Box 60202 tel 02/332955-8; Luxembourg, 8th floor, International House, Mama Ngina Street, PO Box 30610 tel 02/224318; Madagascar, 1st floor, Hilton Building, Mama Ngina Street, PO Box 41723 tel 02/225286; Malawi, Mvuli Road/Church Road, off Waiyaki Way, Westlands, PO Box 30453 tel 02/440568-9; Mozambique, HFCK Building, Kenyatta Avenue/Koinange Street tel 02/222446; Netherlands, Riverside Lane, off Riverside Drive, PO Box 41537 tel 02/447412; New Zealand, 3rd floor, Minet ICDC House, Mamlaka Road, PO Box 47383 tel 02/722467; Nigeria, Lenana Road, Hurlingham, PO Box 30516 tel 02/564116-8; Norway, 8th floor, HFCK Building, Kenyatta Avenue, PO Box 46363 tel 02/337121-2; Pakistan, Church Road, off Rhapta Road, Westlands, PO Box 30045 tel 02/443911-2; Poland, Kabarnet Road, off Ngong Road, Woodley, PO Box 30086 tel 02/566288; Portugal, 10th floor, Reinsurance Plaza, Taifa Road, PO Box 34020 tel 02/338990; Russia, next to Army HQ, Lenana Road, PO Box 30049 tel 02/728700; Rwanda, 12th floor, International House, Mama Ngina Street, PO Box 48579 tel 02/240563; Seychelles, 7th floor, Agip House, Waiyaki Way, PO Box 20400 tel 02/441150; Slovakia, Milimani Road tel 02/721896-7; Somalia, 5th floor, International House, Mama Ngina Street, PO Box 30769 tel 02/580165; South Africa, 17th floor, Lonrho House, Standard Street, PO Box 42441 tel 02/215616-8; Spain, 5th floor, Bruce House, Standard Street, PO Box 45503 tel 02/335711; Sudan, 7th floor, Minet ICDC House, Mamlaka Road, PO Box 74059 tel 02/720883; Sweden, 10th floor, International House, Mama Ngina Street, PO Box 30600 tel 02/229042; Switzerland, 7th floor, International House, Mama Ngina Street, PO Box 30752 tel 02/228735; Tanzania, 9th floor, Reinsurance Plaza, Taifa Road, PO Box 47790 tel 02/331056; Uganda, 5th floor, Uganda House, Kenyatta Avenue, PO Box 60853 tel 02/330801; United Kingdom, Upper Hill Road, off Haile Selassie Avenue, PO Box 30465 tel 02/719107 or 719082; USA, Mombasa Road, PO Box30137 tel 02/537800, fax 537810; Zambia, Nyerere Road, PO Box 48741 tel 02/724796; Zimbabwe, 6th floor, Minet ICDC House, Mamlaka Road, PO Box 30806 tel 02/721049

Flight information Tel 02/822111 or 822206 at Kenyatta International Airport.

Football (soccer) Nyayo Stadium, at the junction of Uhuru Highway and Langata Rd. Seats cost Ksh60-120. Highly recommended, whether you're a regular fan or not, but especially for international matches (these may be played at Moi International Stadium on the Thika Rd). Getting back to the town centre afterwards by public transport can be a problem.

Freight Air freight is cheaper than sea freight except for very large items. All companies charge the same per kilo rates (currently $5.32 per kg, with discounts for certain items like books), but shop around for the lowest handling charges. Federal Express, Bruce House, Standard St, PO Box 49707 (tel 02/240106 or 240138, fax 211307) is reliable and charges a minimum fee of $80 which is less than most. Alternatively, much cheaper is simply to bypass the middlemen and send your parcels direct from the British Airways cargo counter at Kenyatta International Airport's international departures lounge (tel 02/822172-5; currently $3.50 per kg for any airport in Europe, no handling charges).

Golf Bookings for all the following can be done through Tobs Golf Safaris Ltd, PO Box 20146 tel 02/721722, 727790, fax 722015, [email protected]. Windsor Golf & Country Club, Kigwa Rd, 15km north of the city (tel 02/862300) has the best location, in rich lake- and woodland teeming with Sykes monkeys. The 6751-yard par 72 course, with a long 640-yard 5th, is reckoned the most challenging, and there's a resident pro, too. On Muchai Drive, the Royal Nairobi Golf Club's 7021-yard par 72 course is easier, with a cultivated landscape and views of the Ngong Hills (tel 02/725769). Muthaiga Golf Club on Muthaiga Rd (tel 02/762414, [email protected]), has its 6676-yard par 72 on the edge of Karura forest. It boasts a variety of indigenous trees and flowering shrubs, has fast greens, and hosts the Kenya Open. Other clubs include the pretty and very colonial Karen Golf & Country Club (tel 02/882801) with a 6893-yard par 72, next to the Blixen Museum; and Limuru Country Club's 6519-yard par 71, in tea country, whose altitude (2130m) provides the rainfall to keep the turf green year-round.

Guides Guides for almost anywhere in Kenya can be arranged through Utalii College, Kenya's college for tourist-oriented trades, though it would be advisable to contact them well in advance (PO Box 31052 tel 02/802540-7).

Hairdressers and barbers Very cheap, no-fuss men's cuts at Boston's, Uganda House Arcade, Kenyatta Ave/Standard St. Manes Unisex Hair Salon, mezzanine floor, Avenue House, Kenyatta Ave, offers bonding weaves, spiral rolls, pedicure, false nails and pussycat, among other mysterious delights.

Health foods Healthier Options, Soin Arcade, Westlands Rd, Westlands. Good range of imported health foods and remedies.

Horse racing Frequent buses on race days (usually Sun) to Ngong Rd Race Course from the KBS bus station.

Horse riding Arifa Riding School, Marula Lane, Karen (tel 02/882937), offers lessons and hire. Kitengela Polo Club, Karen (tel 02/882782), also has lessons, "game drives", picnic rides and, of course, polo.

Hospitals The Kenyatta National Hospital, Argwings Kodhek Rd (tel 02/726300) is the main public hospital for accidents and emergencies, and did miraculous work in the aftermath of the August 7 US Embassy bombing. It's adequate for non-life-threatening problems, but under-staffed and under-funded. The private Consolata Sisters' Nazareth Hospital (tel 02/335684), on Riara Ridge Rd, near Limuru, about 25km from Nairobi (bus #117 from bus station), charges reasonable rates and is recommended if you need to be in for some time (assuming you have any choice in the matter). Another private place with a good reputation is the Aga Khan Hospital in Third Parklands Ave (PO Box 30270 tel 02/740000). For emergencies, dial 999 (free calls).

Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) This is Kenya's National Parks organization, who are in charge of their day-to-day running and security, as well as liaison with local communities. Contacting them is essential if you plan to visit the more remote parks and reserves, or have specialist requests or queries. They are also the only body to give (hard to get) official clearance for entering parks and zones where security is a concern (notably Mount Elgon, and all the parks and reserves in Northeastern Province). KWS Headquarters, Langata Rd, Nairobi National Park Main Gate, PO Box 40241 tel 02/501081-2, fax 505866 or 501752, .

Language schools Trans Africa Language Services, Joseph Kangethe Rd, Adam's Arcade, off Ngong Rd (tel 02/561160), offers Kiswahili courses individually and in groups. Other languages are also available. A similar service is offered by Makioki Language Services, Kijabi St (tel 02/242330), and Nairobi Cultural Institute, Ngong Rd (tel 02/340310). For private teaching, check the noticeboard at Gallery Watatu.

Laundry There are two laundries in Nairobi: Mbuni Dry Cleaners in Westlands at the corner of Chiromo and Mpaka roads; and - better and more expensive - Niki's in Hurlingham Plaza, Hurlingham, Argwings Kodhek Rd (tel 02/710909). Laundry may be left with the staff to wash and iron for later collection. There are plenty of dry-cleaners: Pearl branches are everywhere and cheap, whilst the equally ubiquitous White Rose is more expensive but has an express service. Hotels and lodgings will always do washing for you.

Left luggage Bags can be left safely at either of the two left-luggage offices at the train station. There are lockers at the side of the 1st/2nd class entrance (daily except Sun 6.30am-noon & 2-6.30pm; Ksh150 per item), whilst larger bags can be left at the third-class hall (daily 7.30am-7.30pm; Ksh300 per item). Given the expense, consider leaving bags in the care of your hotel, if you think you can trust them. There is no left-luggage facility at the airport.

Libraries The British Council, ICEA Building, Kenyatta Ave (Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 9am-noon; tel 02/334875), has British newspapers and magazines, in addition to videos for rent, and film/video screenings on Tues and Thurs at 5.30pm. The McMillan Memorial Library, Banda St (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9.30am-1pm; free; tel 02/224281 ext 2253), is the main public library, with a good "Africana" reading room (Ksh100 for a week's use). For serious research, the British Institute in Eastern Africa, 3km northwest of town at Laikipia Rd (off Arboretum Drive), Kileleshwa (tel 02/43721 or 43330, fax 43365, [email protected]) is excellent, with a comprehensive collection of books, academic journals, off-prints and theses: membership costs Ksh500 for residents, A?12.50 for non-residents, for which you also receive the annual journal Azania . Also good for research is the reading room in the National Archives, Moi Ave, whose annual membership is a paltry Ksh50. There are also small research libraries at the university's Department for African Studies, based in the National Museum compound, and at the National Museum itself, jointly run with the East Africa Natural History Society.

Maps Game park maps published by the Survey of Kenya (some of which are over a decade out of date), and maps of Nairobi and environs, are available from bookshops; so, too, are the city-wide A-Z of Nairobi (Kenway Publications; 1999) and general maps of Kenya. For Survey of Kenya covering other parts of the country, the procedure is complicated to say the least: you first visit the Public Map Office, Harambee Ave (just west of the Conference Centre), to find out which of the sheets you want are available, and note their numbers (they sell all the game park maps, too). Then you go to the Survey of Kenya offices (PO Box 30046) out on the Thika road where you make a formal written request stating which sheets you want, why ("I am a tourist wishing to visit"), and leaving your address. They will, eventually, get back to you, with an authorization to buy the maps. You might want to do all this before even reaching Kenya, though in fact some of the supposedly "sensitive" maps are available to order through stockists in Europe and America. The British Ordnance Survey is one such agent.

Newspapers and magazines Foreign papers such as the International Herald Tribune are available from several news stands around Kenyatta Ave, as are Newsweek and Time , and most of the British dailies and Sundays. The majority of bookshops stock magazines. The best Kenyan daily is the Nation. The People on Fridays and the East African on Mondays are also good.

Noticeboards The best-known was at the Thorn Tree CafAŠ at the Stanley Hotel , but this disappeared after the eponymous tree was cut down in 1997. There is now a smaller and a less used noticeboard in its place. The Iqbal's, the Upper Hill Campsite noticeboards are good for budget travellers, as are those at Ma Roche's and the youth hostel. The Fairview Hotel has a slightly more upmarket noticeboard, used by travellers.

Opticians All your needs, including contact lenses and solutions, at Eye Masters Ltd, Kenya Cinema Plaza, Moi Ave (Mon-Fri 7.30am-6pm, Sat 9am-2pm; tel 02/222601). Or try the Family Eye Care Centre, Princely House, Moi Avenue (Mon-Sat 8.30am-5pm, Sun 9am-noon; tel 02/337989).

Ornithology The Museum Ornithology Society organizes bird walks or drives around Nairobi. Enthusiastic non-members are welcome if they make a donation. Meet at the museum on Wed at 8.30am.

Passport photos Five-minute passport photo service at Studio One, corner of Moi/Nkrumah avenues, and at Custom Color, Kaunda St. There's a Colour Studio at Vedic House on Mama Ngina St.

Pharmacies Kam Pharmacy, Mpaka Rd, Westlands (tel 02/443776), has a branch too on the ground floor of the IPS House on Kimathi St. There's also a chemist in the Hilton (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sun 9am-1.30pm).

Photocopying Numerous places throughout Nairobi. MBIM, bottom of consolidated Bank House, corner of Loita and Koinange streets. Xerox, right by the entrance to the Hilton is probably the easiest to find.

Photography For camera repairs, try Camera Clinic, Biashara St (tel 02/222492). Buying a camera is approximately twice as expensive as in Europe: check Nairobi noticeboards (see under "Noticeboards"). For batteries and to rent cameras and binoculars, the main outlet is Elite Camera House, Kimathi St, south of Kenyatta, but they are not recommended for repairs. Expo Camera, Esso House, Mama Ngina St (next to the Kenya Coffee Board), offers a fast, reliable service for prints and slides and also does good repairs. Any branch of Colorama is likely to be reliable, and there's an efficient one-hour service (2hr for slides) from Spectrum Colour Lab at Rehema House on Standard St.

Post and parcel couriers If you have valuable items to send home contact: DHL, Longonot Place, Kijabe St, PO Box 67577 tel 02/534988, fax 339850; TNT Express Worldwide, Kiambere Rd, PO Box 41520 tel 02/723554, fax 723077; UPS, Fedha Towers, Kaunda St, PO Box 45422 tel 02/252200, fax 333411; or EMS Speedpost on Posta Rd. See also "Freight".

Postal services The GPO (Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-noon) on Kenyatta Ave has poste restante . Letters normally take under a week to arrive from Europe, although 3-4 weeks is not unheard of, and too many things simply never arrive. The parcels office is upstairs. Parcels from home can be addressed to you at poste restante : you'll get a note from the Parcels Section. There are smaller branch offices on Moi Ave opposite Tubman Rd, and another nearby on Tom Mboya St. Alternatively, one of the larger hotels may oblige by selling you stamps.

Sports and health clubs (see also "Golf clubs"). The Norfolk Hotel sells one-month membership (under $50) of its health club, which includes use of its heated pool and gym, and aerobics. The Serena Hotel has a similar deal, which includes its unheated pool and multigym. The Nairobi Safari Club 's facilities are ridiculously expensive, as are the Grand Regency 's. Much more fun than any of these is Grand-Prix Karting, next to Carnivore , with its 500-metre circuit (Wed-Sun; tel 02/501758). There's indoor bowling at the Cosmic Bowling & Pool Centre in Sound Plaza, Woodvale Grove, Westlands.

Swimming pools One of the best pools is at Hotel Boulevard , a nice setting with delightful water and better value than the Norfolk 's. For the genuinely skint, Heron Court Hotel charges a mere Ksh40 for its pool, and the excellent one at the YMCA on the west side of Uhuru Highway costs the same. The pool at the Panafric is handy if you're staying at the youth hostel; the pool at Silver Springs Hotel , Valley Rd, behind the hostel, is even better. A day by an ordinary pool usually costs around Ksh100-200. If you're staying at Ma Roche's , you should certainly check out the modern sports complex behind the Aga Khan Hospital - fantastic pool, diving board, lounging area, snooker rooms, gym and team-sport pitches and courts all for about Ksh60 a day. More central are the pools at the Stanley Hotel (including jacuzzi and steam room), Meridian Court Hotel , and Hotel Inter-Continental (use of the steam room, jacuzzi and sauna for Ksh800, though you stay as long as you like). Safari Park Hotel 's pool is unfortunately for residents only. For real water-babies, a trip to Carnivore 's Splash! water park is a must: waterslides, fountains, ecstatic children and sometimes a disco at night.

Taxis Kenatco tel 02/225123, 316611, 230771-2; JKA airport branch tel 02/824248 or 822356. Kenya Taxi Cabs Association tel 02/222953. Discount Travel, ground floor, 20th Century Plaza, Mama Ngina St (tel 02/251203), runs to the airport for Ksh900.

Telephone and faxes (see also "Email and internet services"). The main place is the official Extelcoms on Haile Selassie Ave. There are two entrances: the one on the left is for calls within Kenya (open 24hr); the one on the right is for international calls (daily 7am-midnight). Calls are made through an operator - you fill in a form stating how many minutes you'd like (currently Ksh540 per minute to Europe, or three minutes for Ksh930, then wait for the call to be put through (sometimes immediate, sometimes takes hours). Lines are less busy at weekends. It's easier, if they haven't run out, to buy a phone card (Ksh200 & Ksh500) to use the blue IDD card phones outside the building (or in the Kenyatta International Conference Centre), but the largest card will only last you a couple of minutes. Note that card phones elsewhere in the city are for national calls only. If all else fails, you can make calls from large hotels; you pay through the nose for this (Ksh1500 and up for 3min) but at least you can talk in peace. Faxes can be sent and received at Extelcoms (fax 02/330170; Ksh250 to send a page worldwide, Ksh28 to receive); but much cheaper is Win.World, 7th floor, Standard Building, Standard St (Ksh170 per page worldwide). Hotels will receive faxes for a small fee (usually around Ksh50 per page).

Tourist information Nairobi has no official tourist information service - a lamentable state of affairs. The free and widely circulated monthly What's On in Kenya is always worth a glance. If you can't find a copy, ask at the Nation Centre, Kimathi St. The Standard and Nation newspapers are a useful source of current information and special offers.

Travel agents and airline bookings Bankco Tours & Travel, 1st floor, Mulji Jetha Mansion, Latema Rd/Lagos Rd, PO Box 11536 tel 02/336144, fax 331874; Crocodile Travel, Stewart Building, Ronald Ngala St/Tom Mboya St, PO Box 20380 tel 02/335250; Haidery Tours & Travel, 1st floor, Impala House, Tom Mboya St, PO Box 45728 tel 02/335256, fax 211949; Hanzuwan El-Kindy Tours & Travel, Dubois Rd, PO Box 49266 tel 02/227387; Kambo Travel, Tom Mboya St, opposite Latema Rd, PO Box 41819 tel 02/228131, fax 228734; Prince Safaris, ground floor, Kenyatta International Conference Centre, PO Box 51096 tel 02/219499, fax 217692; Tour Africa Safaris, 7th floor, Rehani House, corner Kenyatta Ave and Koinange St, PO Box 34187 tel 02/336767, fax 338271, ; Trade & Travel Ltd, Monrovia St, opposite Jeevanjee Gardens, PO Box 11392 tel 02/227575, fax 228710; Travel Service, Pan Africa House, Standard St, PO Box 45456 tel 02/3221992, fax 214120, [email protected].

Vaccinations Cholera, yellow fever, typhoid and hepatitis jabs can be obtained from City Hall, City Hall Way, or from Dr C.S. Sheth, Sarit Centre, Westlands, who can also advise about malaria.

Visitor's passes/visas Visitor's pass extensions (up to six months in all) can be obtained at Nyayo House, Posta Rd, behind the GPO (Mon-Fri 8.30am-12.30pm & 2-3.30pm; tel 02/332022). This is usually done while you wait. Don't go there if you've overstayed your permit.

Women's movement The Maendeleo ya Wanawake ("Women's Progress") Organization has its main office in Maendeleo House on Monrovia St, PO Box 44412 tel 02/222095, fax 225390. Founded in 1952, the MYWO also has a shop on Muindi Mbingu St, selling crafts without the middle men. The Forum for African Women Educationalists (FAWE, PO Box 53168 tel 02/226590, fax 210709), established in 1992, aims to improve girls' and women's education.

Worship As well as many mosques and temples, Nairobi has a number of churches, two cathedrals, and a synagogue. The four main churches and synagogue are located in the northwest of the city centre and the area is a lively focus for Christians on Sunday mornings. All Saint's Cathedral, a beautiful church behind Uhuru Park, has often been a gathering point for peaceful opposition protest to the government.


Other useful information for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections):




Kenya,
Nairobi