Banks BanCrecen, at C 10 and C 57, and Bital, at C10 and C55 are both on the main square and have ATMs. Banamex is also on C 10 at the corner of C 53.

Buses Regular first-class ADO, Colon and second-class Autobuses del Sur buses (all from the same terminal) leave for Ciudad del Carmen (hourly; 3hr), Merida (more than 12 daily; 2hr), Chetumal via Escarcega and Xpujil (6 daily; 5-7hr), Villahermosa (10 daily; 6-7hr). There are also services to San Cristobal (via Palenque), Playa del Carmen, Veracruz, Mexico City and Coatzalcoalcos (for Southern Veracruz) and second-class buses direct to Uxmal. Minibuses leave from the market just outside the southern end of the old city (C 53 and Circuito Baluartes Este), for local villages like the craft centres Becal and Calkini, and for Edzna. Aeromexico (tel 9/816-6656 or 816-4925) operates a variety of internal flights. A taxi out to the airport costs around US$8.

Car rental Maya Car Rental (tel 9/816-2233) in the Hotel del Mar . Viajes Turisticos Xtampak also rent cars (tel 9/812-6485, www.webcampeche.com/oferta/xtampak ).

Internet and fax facilities There are internet cafes on every street in the centre of Campeche, charging approx US$1 per hour. You can fax from the Telecomm office on Av 16 de Septiembre (Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat 9am-1pm).

Laundry Tintoria Campeche on C 55 no. 26 (Mon-Sat 9am-4pm).

Post office Av 16 de Septiembre at C 53, in the Oficinas del Gobierno Federal (Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat 9am-2pm).

Tours Novia del Mar (tel 9/816-2417) run day-trips to both Edzna (US$25) and Uxmal (US$45). The best way to see the Calakmul biosphere is with Corazon Maya, located in the San Pedro Baluarte, C 18 and C 51 (tel 9/811-3788, www.corazonmaya.cjb.net ), who organize excellent private tours (US$150 for 1-4 people) into the area and can also arrange customized bird-watching or camping trips.