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Eating, drinking and nightlife
 

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You don't need to wander far from the centre to find good places to eat : there's a particularly fine group around the zA?calo, and you can get juices and tortas at any time around the bandstand in the JardA­n. Evening activity mostly centres on the Plazuela del Zacate, just a couple of blocks south of the zA?calo where the corner of Galeana and Hidalgo is intersected by Fray BartolomAİ de Las Casas. Most nights there are large groups hanging around a small triangular area, occasionally popping into one of the fashionable cafAİs and bars for a beer, or sitting outside listening to someone playing on the makeshift stage. There are also free concerts from the bandstand in the JardA­n JuA?rez every Thursday evening at 6pm.

Cafeona , Morrow 6 (tel 7/318-2757). Small and friendly cafAİ that promotes the culture and food of Chiapas, with native decor, salads, good low-cost breakfasts and dishes suchs as tamales chiapanecos. Comida corrida for around US$3.50, and there is occasional live acoustic music in the evening.

Comida Vegetariana , Arteaga 18, just off Matamoros. Sunny upstairs room serving wholesome four-course vegetarian comidas for US$3.50.

La India Bonita , Morrow 6, just off Morelos. Lovely restaurant with a pleasant outdoor patio, excellent but moderately priced food (including set breakfasts) and impeccable service. Expect to pay around US$8 for delicious mains, or just drop in for a quiet drink at the bar.

Las MaAħanitas , Ricardo Linares 107 (tel 7/314-1466). The sort of restaurant that people drive hours to visit, located in the sumptuous grounds of the hotel of the same name. You'll probably part with at least US$40 for a full meal but you won't regret it.

Los Arcos , JardA­n de los HAİroes 4 (tel 7/312-1510). Ever-popular restaurant and bar on the south side of the zA?calo serving espresso coffee and a wide range of fairly pricey dishes catering to locals and foreign students. In the evening most people are here to drink and listen to the nightly live music, which comes in a variety of styles and abilities.

Marco Polo , upstairs at Hidalgo 30, opposite the cathedral (tel 7/312-3484). Excellent trattoria and pizzeria with some balcony seating overlooking the cathedral. The fresh pasta dishes (US$5-9) are some of the best around and there are tasty salads as well as mains such as brandy-flamed veal (US$9).

Pollo y MA?s , Galeana 4. Opposite the zA?calo, serving tasty roast chicken, enchiladas and antojitos.

Vienes , Lerdo de Tejada 302 (tel 7/314-3404). Sophisticated Austro-Hungarian restaurant just a block from the zA?calo that makes a great spot for continental-style coffee, cakes and entrAİes.


Other useful information for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections):




Mexico,
Cuernavaca