American Express Av Vallarta 2440 (tel 3/815-2319).

Bookshops For English-language books, try Sanborn's, Juarez between 16 de Septiembre and Corona, and at Vallarta 1600, or Sandi Bookstore, Tepeyac 718 in Colonia Chapalita; many of the larger bookstores around the centre also have a small selection of English-language books.

Buses Long-distance buses all leave from the Central Camionera, way out in suburbia. To get there from the centre, take a #275, #275A or #644 from 16 de Septiembre, or one of the buses marked "Nueva Central" heading south along Independencia or 16 de Septiembre. In general, make for buildings 1 and 2 for destinations in Jalisco, Colima and Michoacan, plus many of the pullman services to Mexico City, Mexico City via Morelia and many towns in the Bajio; 3 and 4 serve the north and northwest, with buses to the US border and up the Pacific coast, plus points en route; 5 for eastbound services towards San Luis Potosi and Tampico, as well as some more local services; 6 for the Bajio, the northeast and many local second-class buses; and 7 for the north and northeast again, as well as Mexico City. If you're heading for somewhere just an hour or so away - Chapala or Tequila, say - it's usually quicker and easier to take a second-class bus from the Camionera Vieja, downtown.

Car rental Agents can be found at the airport, as well as downtown where they're concentrated on Av Ninos Heroes near the Sheraton (not far from the Parque Agua Azul); these include Alamiz, Ninos Heroes 961- (tel 3/614-6393, or at the airport tel 688-5216); Argus, Ninos Heroes 968 (tel 3/614-9554); Budget, Ninos Heroes 934 (tel 3/614-1053); Hertz, Av 16 de la Septiembre 738 (tel 3/614-6162); National, Ninos Heroes 961-C (tel 3/614-4595, or at the airport tel 688-5522); and Quick Rent a Car, Ninos Heroes 954 (tel 3/614-6052).

Consulates Canada, Hotel Fiesta Americana , Local 30, Aurelio Aceves 225 (tel 3/615-5642); Honduras, Milan 2528, Col Providencia (tel 3/817-4482); UK, Plaza Bonita, C Jesus de Rojas 20 (tel 3/343-2296); and the US, Progreso 175 (tel 3/825-2700). The tourist information office has a complete list of addresses for all consulates.

Exchange American Express (see above); Thomas Cook, Circumvalacion Agustin Yanez 2343-D (tel 3/669-5507).

Internet facilities There are several internet cafes in central Guadalajara, many within easy walking distance of the cathedral, including one at Moreno 413 (US$2 per hr), and Morelos 1245 (US$2.50 per hr).

Laundry Aldama 125, off Independencia a few blocks south of the Mercado Libertad (Mon-Sat 9am-8pm); and Juarez 323 (Mon-Fri 10am-2pm & 4-8pm).

Markets and shopping The giant Mercado Libertad is just one of Guadalajara's markets - every city barrio has its own. They include the very touristy Mercado Corona near the cathedral, and craft markets in Tlaquepaque and Tonala. The Sunday flea market El Baratillo is vast, sometimes stretching a mile or more along Javier Mina, starting a dozen blocks east of the Mercado Libertad. The city is also big on nutritionists, and healthfood/aromatherapy stores; head for Lopez Cortilla if you're after some echinacea, green tea or muscle-building protein powder.

Pharmacy Farmacia de Descuento, in the centre at Pedro Moreno 518 (Mon-Sat 8am-10pm, Sun 9am-9pm).

Police Dial 3/617-7060. The police station is way out to the east of the city, and it's easier to report a crime or accident at the Procuraduria de Justicia (Justice Department) at Calz Independencia 118 (tel 3/617-5650).

Spanish courses As well as Guadalajara University (tel 3/616-4399, www.cepe.udg.mx ), a number of colleges offer Spanish courses here, usually costing around US$600 for 5 weeks - for more information, contact the tourist office.

Tours The Tequila Express train tour leaves the train station and runs through blue agave fields to Tequila train station, where there's a toast and a demonstration of the harvest process, alongside a contrived fiesta. The train leaves at 10am, returning at 7pm and costs US$45 for adults, US$35 for children under 12. Children under six go free. Tickets can be bought from the Chamber of Commerce cashier department on the corner of Av Vallarta at Av Nino Obrero (tel 3/880-9015).

Travel agents There are plenty of travel agents around the centre, including in the lobbies of all the big hotels, or head for American Express or Thomas Cook.