The Bay of La Paz was explored by Cortes himself in the first years after the Conquest - drawn, as always, by tales of great wealth - but he found little to interest him and, despite successive expeditions, at first merely rapacious, later missionary, La Paz wasn't permanently settled until the end of the eighteenth century. It grew rapidly, however, thanks to the riches of the surrounding sea, and above all as a pearl-fishing centre. American troops occupied the town during the Texan war, and six years later it was again invaded, by William Walker in one of his many attempts to carve himself out a Central American kingdom; by this time it was already capital of the territory of California. The pearl trade has pretty much dried up - a mystery disease wiped out most of the oysters - but since the 1960s La Paz has continued to boom, buoyed up by tourists at first flown in, then boosted by the growing ferry service, and now supplemented by the hordes pouring down Hwy-1.

The best time to visit is from November to May, as summers can be unbearably hot. During the last week in February La Paz holds its carnival , with colourful parades and cultural events transforming the town.