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The ferry from La Paz
 

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If you're planning to take the ferry across the Sea of Cortes to Mazatlan or Topolobampo (the port for Los Mochis), you should buy tickets as soon as possible: cabins - either turista (four bunks), cabina (two bunks) or especial (suite) - and space for cars are often oversubscribed. There's rarely any problem going salon class (entitling you to a reclining seat), for which tickets are only available a day in advance. On balance, for most people, salon is the best option, as the cabins can be freezing if the a/c works and stiflingly hot if not. Sleeping out on deck is best of all. Departures for the eighteen-hour run to Mazatlan leave daily at 3pm, except Saturday during the off season (the Wed sailing has salon class only); those for the nine- to ten-hour sail to Topolobampo leave daily (except Tues) at 8pm.

You can make reservations at the downtown ticket offices of the ferry operators : SEMATUR, 5 de Mayo and Prieto (tel 1/125-4440 or 125-3833, www.ferrysematur.com.mx ), where you'll need to arrive early and be prepared to wait in line; direct at the terminal (tel 1/122-5117); Baja Ferries, Morelos 720 (tel 1/125-7443); or through local travel agents. The cost of tickets to Topolobampo with SEMATUR, which can be paid for with Visa and MasterCard, ranges from US$23 for a reclining seat to US$69 for a cabin and US$180 for a small car if going. For the trip to Mazatlan, a salon class ticket costs US$30), a turista ticket is US$60, a cabina is US$90, and a small car will cost US$280. Bicycles go free. Baja Ferries services to Topolobampo (a daily, morning service) cost US$130 for a small car but they don't allow more than one person per vehicle - and even then, no women are allowed.

Before buying tickets, car drivers should ensure they have a permit to drive on the mainland. This should have been obtained when crossing the border into Mexico, but if not you may have some joy by taking your vehicle and all relevant papers along to the customs office at the ferry terminal a couple of days before you sail. If for some reason you've managed to get this far without having your tourist card stamped, you should also attend to that before sailing - there's an immigration office at Obregon 2140, between Juarez and Allende.

To get to the ferry itself, which sails from the terminal at Pichilingue, some 14km away, go to the old bus station on the malecon - straight down Independencia from the zocalo - and, again, get there early. There is only one bus an hour, on the hour (8am-5pm; US$1). Arrive at the ferry by 1.30pm. According to signs at the terminal, it is illegal to take your own food on board, but since the catering is so poor everyone does and nobody seems to mind.


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