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Loreto
 

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LORETO is a far bigger town than MulegAŠ, on the site of the earliest permanent settlement in the Californias. Founded in 1697 as the head of the Jesuit missions to California, and later taken over by the Franciscans, it was in practice the administrative capital of the entire territory for some 130 years until a devastating hurricane struck in 1829. More recently it has been a popular escape for fishing and diving enthusiasts, and nowadays it's enjoying something of a renaissance, boosted by the development of southern Baja California as a whole. A super-resort along the lines of CancA?n was planned some 10km south of town - an airport laid out, roads and electricity put in - but for a long time things went no further as priorities were switched elsewhere. As of now there's the Stouffer Presidente hotel, a tennis centre and the beginnings of further construction, but mostly NopolA? (as the result will be known) seems deserted. The main upshot seems to be that downtown Loreto itself has been spruced up in expectation, and that prices have risen accordingly. There is, however, the tidy, if impersonal malecA?n, Boulevard Lopez Mateos, backing the tolerable town beach , and, with transport, you can reach some more great stretches of sand a few miles to the south - and good camping territory, too.

The original mission church is still standing and, though heavily restored after centuries of earthquake damage, its basic structure - solid, squat and simple - is little changed. The inscription over the door, which translates as "The head and mother church of the missions of upper and lower California" attests to its former importance, as does the Baroque altarpiece originally transported here from Mexico City. Next door a small museum (daily except Tues 9am-6pm; US$1.25) chronicles the early conversion and colonization of Baja California, and houses a declaration of Loreto as the historical capital of the Californias.

Loreto is yet another of superb place for diving and kayaking . Las Parras (tel 1/135-0900, lasparras@loretoweb.com.mx ), at Madero 16 next to the CafAŠ Ole , is an established if pricey tour operator, and can set you up with gear for diving, kayaking and snorkelling. A two-tank dive will run cost you US$75, a full eight-hour day of kayaking US$25. They also do tours to see cave paintings and whales, though these are far pricier than those from San Ignacio. Baja Outpost , which is also a bed-and-breakfast, can also set you up with diving equipment.


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Mexico,
Loreto