American Express Viajes Micsa, Valdivieso 2 (tel 9/516-2700).

Banks and exchange Most banks have 24hr ATMs and are open for foreign exchange from 9am to 12.30pm. Casas de cambio litter the centre of town - the ones on the zocalo, at Hidalgo 807 and at Alcala 100-A - all give near identical rates to the banks and also open longer hours (usually daily 8am-8pm). Some of them change European currencies but at insulting rates. The American Express office (see above) generally offers poor rates.

Bike rental Some tour operators rent out bikes, as do Arrendadora Express (see Car rental).

Books and maps There are several bookshops selling Spanish and English titles, as well as museum shops and reference libraries. You can get new and secondhand English-language books about Oaxaca, Mexico and Latin America from Corazon el Pueblo, Alcala 307, and the Libreria Universitaria, Guerrero 108, just off the zocalo (Mon-Sat 9.30am-2pm & 4-8pm), or try the main library, the Biblioteca Circulante de Oaxaca, Alcala 305 (Mon-Fri 10am-1pm & 4-7pm, Sat 10am-1pm), between Matamoros and Bravo; the Instituto Welte de Estudios Oaxacquenos at 5 de Mayo 412 (for enthnography, archeology and geography); or the excellent, predominantly arts library at the Graphic Arts Institute, Alcala 507. Codice, Alcala 403, also has books and maps in English.

Buses From the first-class station at Chapultepec 1036, bus companies Cristobal Colon and ADO between them run regular first-class and pullman services to Mexico City, Puebla, Puerto Escondido, Pochutla, San Cristobal, Tehuacan and Villahermosa. Cristobal Colon has a downtown ticket office at 20 de Noviembre 204A (Mon-Sat 9am-2pm & 4-7pm), and ADO has one inside the American Express office, on the zocalo at the corner of Hidalgo and Valdivieso (Mon-Fri 9am-2pm & 4-8pm). Slower, cheaper, more frequent and less comfortable services leave from the second-class bus station near the new market, to Mexico City (mostly overnight), Puerto Escondido, Pinotepa Nacional, Pochutla, Salina Cruz, Tuxtla Gutierrez and other destinations.

Car rental Arrendadora Express, 20 Novembre 204A (tel & fax 9/516-6776), are cheap and reliable, charging US$40 a day for a VW Beetle, with a number of other cars and motorbikes, and also rent mountain bikes (US$6.50 per day).

Cinema You can see international and Mexican films for free at the Cine Pochote, Garcia Vigil 817 (for listings see the Oaxaca Times ). The Allianza Francesca at Morelos 306 has occasional French films.

Consulates USA, Alcala 201 (tel 9/513-9944). Other consulates in Oaxaca move regularly - check the latest at the tourist information office.

Dentists English-speaking dentists are listed in the Oaxaca Times , or ask at the tourist information office.

Doctors The Clinica Hospital Carmen, Abosolo 215 (tel 9/516-2612) is open 24hr and has English-speaking doctors.

Emergencies Police dial 9/516-0774; hospital dial 9/515-3709.

Internet access The beautifully set Cafe Gecko , near the church of Santo Domingo at 5 de Mayo 412 (Mon-Sat 10am-2pm & 4-8pm) and the lovely Osho Angel gallery at Garcia Vigil 406, both charge US$1.20 per hour. The comfy Cafe Internet , Trujano 300, charges US$1 an hour. Most cafes have a copy and printing service, and some have long-distance call booths and rent out computers.

Laundry Azteca Laundry, 404B Hidalgo (Mon-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 10am-2pm); Superlavanderia Hildalgo, Hildalgo at J.P. Garcia (Mon-Sat 8am-8pm); and Clin Lavanderia, 20 de Noviembre 605 (Mon-Sat 8am-8pm).

Legal aid If you have a complaint, have lost important documents or have been robbed, go to the Centre for the Protection of Tourists, Independencia 607 (tel 9/516-0123).

Massages and saunas Have a massage to help ease away the aches and pains of shopping at the natural-health store Naturalmente, Aldama 303. Traditional temazcal sauna (US$20) and massage (US$20) are offered in a peaceful garden on the outskirts of town at The Bugambilias , Reforma 402 (tel 5/295-1165; reserve at least a day in advance), a short taxi or cheap bus ride away. La Casa del Angel, at Jacobo Dalevuelta 200, has yoga, meditation and dance classes on Mon-Thurs evenings. Listings for more alternative health practitioners can be found in the Oaxaca Times .

Phones Available in the post office (see below), with plenty more all over town; try Computel, Trujano 204, just west of the zocalo; or Multitel, Alcala 100A, which has fax, phones and internet access.

Post and shipping services The post office is on Independencia by the Alameda (Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-1pm), and has fax services and Ladatel phones for collect calls. Areem, at Independencia 500 (tel 9/514-3037), can help shipping anything home if you've overloaded on handicrafts.

Study Language classes and courses in Latin American literature and Mexican civilization and culture can be arranged through the Centro de Idiomas at the Benito Juarez University of Oaxaca (tel & fax 9/515-3922; write to Centro de Idiomas, Burgoa s/n, Oaxaca, Oaxaca 68000). Other courses are offered by the ICC, in a restored sixteenth-century building near the zocalo at M Alcala 307 (tel 9/516-3443, www.iccoax.com ); Amigos del Sol, Libres 109 (tel 9/514-3484, www.mexonline.com/amisol.htm ); Becari Language School, Plaza San Cristobal, Bravo 210 (tel & fax 9/514-6076, www.antequera.antequera.com/becari ); and the Instituto de Comunicacion y Cultura, Burgoa at Bustamente (tel & fax 9/516-5922). If you're interested in Oaxacan cuisine, you can cook while learning Spanish at the Seasons of My Heart cooking school, Rancho Aurora, Admon 3 (tel 9/518-7726, www.seasonsofmyheart.com ), or the Espanol Interactivo Language School, Armenta Y Lopez 311B (tel 9/514-6062). Cafe la Antigua , Reforma 403 (tel 9/516-5761), runs a course on the culture of coffee.

Tour operators Day-trips to Monte Alban and nearby villages (such as El Tule) cost around US$10. Operators include: Cantera Tours, Plaza Gonzalo Lucero, 5 de Mayo 412 (tel 9/516-0512); Turismo Marques del Valle, Hotel Marques del Valle , on the zocalo (tel 9/514-6962); and El Condor Jeep (no address; tel 9/514-3570), who go slightly more off the beaten track. Bicicletas Oaxaca at M Bravo 214 (tel 9/514-4003, Eroger@persoaxaca.com.mx ); Bicicletas Pedro Martinez (tel 9/514-3144); and Ecotourism Teotitlan (tel 9/524-4103) rent bikes and run day-trips from Oaxaca to places like Dainzu or Santa Cruz (prices vary). Tierradentro, Reforma 528 (tel 9/514-9284, www.tierradentro.com ), organize more-adventurous hiking, mountaineering and rock-climbing expeditions. Several other ecotourist companies run horse-riding, bird-watching and nature photography trips - ask at the tourist office for more information.

Travel agents Universal Travel Centre, Diaz Ordaz 408B (Mon-Sat 9am-9pm, Sun 9am-1pm; tel 9/514-7039), has good deals and English-speaking staff.

Western Union Two shops, at Guerrero 112, and 20 de Noviembre at Zaragoza, offer Western Union's money-transfer service.

Work The Oaxaca Street Children Grassroots project (Centro de Esperanza Infantil) aims to bring a brighter future to Oaxaca's neediest children. You can contribute to their food and medical programme, or volunteer with them in Oaxaca by visiting or contacting the centre at Jesus Carranza 112 (tel 9/516-2104, Evannini@worldnet.att.net ).