Another taste sensation is chiles en nogada , a dish reputedly concocted in 1821 to celebrate Mexican Independence and made to resemble the colours of the Mexican flag. Green poblano chili is filled with ground meats, fruits and nuts then covered with a creamy walnut sauce then doused with bright red pomegranate seeds. It is best sampled from July to September but can often be found at other times.

Central Puebla is mostly quiet at night and to find any bars you'll have to head a few blocks south to the Plazuela de los Sapos, near 6 Sur and 5 Pte, where several lively bars face each other across a small square. Things don't really get going until Thursday night, when you might also head around six long blocks west of the zocalo to the Zona Esmeralda, where there's a string of bars and clubs to keep you going. Otherwise, many people head out to Cholula to join the lively, studenty atmosphere there; though you'll have to be prepared for a fairly expensive taxi ride back: buses stop running at around 11pm, just when the clubs start hotting up.

Batalla , 6 Sur 506. Just one of a handful of similar bars and antros on the Plazuela de los Sapos mostly pumping out Latin and US pop hits and offering two for one drink specials early in the week to try and get the punters in. Take your pick from La Boveda at #503, El Reguardo de Los Angeles at #504 or D'Pasodita at #501, which is more of a drinkers' bar.

Cafe Aguirre , 5 de Mayo 4. Predictable and safe restaurant that's a long-standing local favourite and is always popular with businesspeople for its range of ten breakfast combos each with juice and coffee (US$2.50-4) along with antojito plates (US$3) and tortas.

Cafe Munich , cnr 3 Pte and 5 Sur. Basic but reliable restaurant serving a wide range of soups and mains and a great comida in a room decorated with photos of Bavarian scenes and drawings of Einstein, Beethoven, Goethe and Wagner.

El Condil , Juarez 1305. Lively bar in the zona esmeralda with music most nights from around 9pm and sometimes a guitarist.

Fonda de Santa Clara , C 3 Pte 307, a couple of blocks west of the zocalo (tel 2/242-2659). The best-known - and most touristy - restaurant in town which serves local food with an upmarket twist in a pretty room decorated with Mexican art. A good place to try the local specialities without breaking the bank. The weekend buffet breakfast is also worth investigating.

Italian Coffee Company , Reforma 107. Flavoured espresso coffees, gourmet teas and cakes in convivial surroundings.

La Guadalupana , 5 Ote 605, Plazuela de los Sapos (tel 2/242-4886). One of Puebla's most celebrated restaurants in a beautiful colonial building and specializing in regional dishes, many served in a molcajete , a kind of volcanic-rock bowl.

La Mesa Poblana , 3 Pte 303. A bright, cheery and good-value restaurant with good set breakfasts for around US$2.50 and menu del dia for just a little more.

La Zanahoria , 5 Ote 206 (tel 2/232-4813). A bustling vegetarian restaurant in Mexican style, with several meat dishes amid the vast array of wholesome vegetarian choices. Burgers and salads are good value though no match for the US$3 breakfasts and US$3.50 menus del dia.

Librer'a Cafeter'a Teorema , Reforma 540 at Calle 7 Nte. Combined bookshop, cafe and live music venue with a relaxed bohemian atmosphere and food, beer and espresso coffees. Gigs usually start around 9.30pm, with acoustic trova from Monday to Thursday and rock from Friday to Sunday. Cover US$1-2.

Meson Sacristia de la Compania , 6 Sur 304 (tel 2/242-3554). Fine dining in the lovely enclosed courtyard of this superb hotel where you really should try the house mole (US$7) preceded by their special soup made with fried tortilla chips, chicharron, cheese and chipotle. Efficient, friendly service and a good wine list make this one of Puebla's best dining experiences.