A much cheaper way to travel is to jump on a water taxi . These depart from Playa de Los Muertos for Quimixto and Las Animas at 10am and for Yelapa at 10.30am, returning from all destinations at about 4pm. Alternatively, you can catch a bus to Boca de TomatlA?n from where about five taxis a day, starting at 10.30am, sail to all three destinations.

Quimixto and Las Animas are beaches pure and simple, while at Yelapa there's a small "typical" village not far from the white-sand beach, and a waterfall a short distance into the jungle. It's marketed as an "untouched paradise" but is more of a luxurious if rustic retreat - there's no electricity, but long-distance phone lines, sushi, and Reiki massages are all on offer. During the day Yelapa is a lively place with day-trippers enjoying all the usual beach activities including parasailing, horse riding and boat trips. If you've got the time and money, stay for the night, as the beach empties as the sun sets and becomes the perfect spot for total rest and relaxation. The Hotel Lagunita (tel 3/298-0554, www.lagunitahotel.com.mx ; US$60-80) has beautiful cabaA±as , but it's easy to camp on the beach, or with luck you might be able to rent a hut for very little.

If you want to go snorkelling or scuba diving at the southern beaches, tours are led by Chico's Dive Shop, DA­az Ordaz 770-2 (daily 8am-10pm; tel 3/222-1895). You can rent gear here, too (US$12 a day for the mask, snorkel and fins; US$40 for the full scuba rig, including tank). It is usually too stiflingly humid to consider anything as energetic as mountain biking , but Bike Mex, Guerrero 361 at Miramar, just north of the upper river bridge (tel 3/223-1680), rents out bikes (US$30 a day), but prefers you to take one of their organized tours into the jungly slopes behind the town and beyond (from US$44).