While Tibetan , Chinese and Indian food have long been taken for granted in Kathmandu, all-purpose "Continental" menus predominate nowadays. These cater to Western travellers, and they're all pretty samey, featuring "buff" steaks (a euphemism: actually it's almost always beef, imported from India; it's against the law to slaughter cattle in Nepal, but not to eat beef, and it's called "buff" on menus so as not to antagonize orthodox Hindus), pasta and pizza, and even a few pseudo-Mexican and Greek dishes, plus, of course, ever-popular pies and cakes . A few restaurants specialize in Japanese , Thai and Korean dishes, highlighting Nepal's connections to the rest of Asia. Sometimes the food is ingeniously authentic, sometimes you have to use your imagination. Terms like "French onion soup", "enchilada" and "moussaka" get thrown around pretty casually here.

The best news of all is that fine Nepali and Newari food - not just daal bhaat, but also special dishes traditionally only served in private homes - are increasingly available in tourist restaurants as well as in reasonably sanitary local eateries, and are slowly taking their place among the other distinguished regional Indian cuisines.

As with lodgings, Thamel has all the newest, trendiest and most professional budget restaurants - though some have become so stylish that they've priced themselves out of the budget category. Freak Street is noticeably cheaper for eating, but it's got a smaller and less interesting selection of establishments. Kathmandu's best and most expensive restaurants are generally found in the Durbar Marg and Kantipath areas and inside the expensive hotels.

Even at the top end, prices are reasonable. As a guide, places decribed here as cheap will charge less than Rs150 per person for a full dinner, not including alcohol (proportionately less for breakfast or lunch). Inexpensive restaurants will run to Rs150-250, moderately priced ones Rs250-500, and expensive ones Rs500 and up. Unless you're on a really tight budget, have at least one special meal at one of the posh restaurants to get the full maharaja experience.

Restaurants move or go out of business often, so don't set off for a far-flung place without first verifying it's still there. Phone numbers are given for restaurants where it's advisable to book ahead for dinner.

Not many tourist restaurants are all- vegetarian , but quite a few of the Indian ones are, and needless to say, every Nepali restaurant does daal bhaat (the Nepali national meal, which is vegetarian unless you specifically request meat). For that matter, almost every restaurant serves at least a few meatless dishes. Even Tibetan places will usually do vegetable momo.

It's all too easy to overemphasize food in Kathmandu - it can also be the greatest peril of staying here. More travellers get sick in the capital than anywhere else, and eating in "reputable" restaurants doesn't necessarily guarantee hygiene. Indeed, Nepali restaurants are arguably safer, since chefs know what they're doing when they prepare Nepali food. Be cautious and don't be taken in by an apparently clean dining room or shiny cutlery.