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Practicalities
 

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Haarlem train station , connected to Amsterdam and to Leiden by four trains an hour, is on the north side of the city, about ten minutes' walk from the centre; buses stop right outside. The VVV , attached to the station (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm, Sat 10am-2pm; tel 0900/616 1600; www.vvvzk.nl ), has maps and can book private rooms (?10-15/$16-24/€18-27) for a small fee. Haarlem has a few reasonably priced and central hotels , such as Carillon , Grote Markt 27 (tel 023/531 0591; ?20-25/$32-40/€36-45); Amadeus , Grote Markt 10 (tel 023/532 4530; ?15-20/$24-32/€27-36); and Joops Innercity Apartments , Oude Groenmarkt 20 (tel 023/532 2008; ?15-20/$24-32/€27-36) and Lange Veerstraat 36 (tel 023/512 5300; ?15-20/$24-32/€27-36). There's an HI hostel at Jan Gijzenpad 3 (tel 023/537 3793; ?5-10/$8-16/€9-18; bus #2 from the station; takes 10min), and campsites among the dunes west of town, accessible on bus #81 from the station, including Bloemendaal , Zeeweg 72 in BLOEMENDAAL-AAN-ZEE (tel 023/573 2178; April-Oct), and De Branding, Boulevard Barnaart 30 near ZANDVOORT (tel 023/571 3035; April-Oct). Haarlem's own site, De Liede , is at Lieover 68 (tel 023/533 2360; bus #2).

For lunches , Cafe Mephisto , Grote Markt 29, is open all day and serves Dutch food for €7-11, snacks for much less. Cafe 1900 , Barteljorisstraat 10, is also a good place for lunch, serving drinks and snacks in a fin-de-siecle interior. In the evening, there's Alfonso's   restaurant , Oude Groenmarkt 8, which does Tex-Mex meals for around €11; Adagio , Lange Veerstraat 17, which serves Italian meals for around €16; or the Indonesian De Lachende Javaen on Frankestraat, with rijsttafels from €18. Ze Crack , at the junction of Lange Veerstraat and Kleine Houtstraat, is a dim, smoky bar with good music and beer by the pint, or for a little traditional character, try the proeflokaal (a spirit-tasting room turned bar) In den Uiver , Riviervischmarkt 13.


Other useful information for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections):




Netherlands,
Haarlem