American Express Based at Lima Tours, Belen 1040, near Plaza San Martin (Mon-Fri 9.15am-4.45pm; tel 427-6624, 426-1765 or 424-0831). Offers a poste restante service.

Anti-Rabies Centre Centro Antirabico (tel 425-6313), for emergency treatment.

Banks Banco de la Nacion, Avenida Nicolas de Pierola 1065 and Avenida Abancay 491; Banco Latino, Paseo de La Republica 3505, San Isidro, which has a Mastercard ATM; Banco de Credito, JirA?n Lampa 499, Avenida Larco 1099, Miraflores (well run and with small queues), and on the corner of Rivera Navarrete and Juan de Arona, San Isidro, both of which offer good rates on traveller's cheques; Banco Continental, Avenida Larco, Miraflores; Citibank, Las Begonias 441, San Isidro; Interbanc, in the Metro Supermarket, corner of Alfonso Ugarte and Venezuela, Lima Centro; and Banco Wiese, JirA?n Cusco 245, Lima Centro, and Alfonso Ugarte 1292, Diagonal 176, Miraflores.

British Council Calle Alberto Lynch 110, near the Ovalo Gutierrez roundabout, San Isidro (tel 470-4350); postal address PO Box 14-0114 Santa Beatriz, Lima, Peru.

Bus companies Always check which terminal your bus is departing from when you buy your ticket. El Aguilla, JirA?n Galvez, La Victoria (tel 424-0836), for Trujillo and Huaraz. Chanchamayo, Manco Capac 1052, La Victoria (tel 470-1189), for Tarma, La Oroya, San Ramon and La Merced. Condor de Chavin, Montevideo 1039 (tel 428-8122), for Callejon de Huaylas, Huarac and ChavA­n. Cruz del Sur have several terminals: in Lima Centro it's JirA?n Quilca 531 (tel 427-1311 or 423-5594) and the corner of Zavala with Montevideo (tel 428-2570), for the coast, Huaraz, Huancayo, Cusco, Arequipa and Puno; for international services it's at Avenida Javier Prado at the corner with Nicoal Arriola (tel 225-6200); for their Ideal service, which includes the coast, Cusco, Arequipa, Puno, Cajamarca, Huancayo and Huaraz it's Paseo de La Republica 809, La Victoria (tel 332-4000). El Condor, Avenida Carlos Zavala 101, Lima Centro (tel 427-0286), for Trujillo or Huancayo. Huamanga, Avenida Luna Pizarro 453, La Victoria (tel 330-2206), for Ayacucho, Trujillo, Chiclayo, Moyobamba and Tarapoto. Enlaces, Avenida Paseo de La Republica 749 (tel 433-3311), for Arequipa. Empresa Huaral, 131 Avenida Abancay, Lima Centro (tel 428-2254), for Huaral, Ancon and Chacay. Empresa Rosario, JirA?n Ayacucho 942 (tel 534-2685), for Huanuco and la Union. Flores Buses, Montevideo 529, Lima Centro (tel 431-0485). Hidalgo, Bolivar 1535 (tel 424-0522). Leon de Huanuco, Avenida 28 de Julio, La Victoria 1520 (tel 4329-0880), for Cerro de Pasco, Huanaco, Tarma and La Merced. Libertadores, Avenida Grau 491, Lima Centro (tel 426-8067), for Ayacucho, Satipo, and Huanta. Lobato Buses, 28 de Julio 2101-2107, La Victoria (tel 474-9411), for Tarma, La Merced and Satipo. Mariscal Caceres, Avenida 28 de Julio 2195, La Victoria (tel 474-7850). Morales Moralitos, Avenida Grau 141 (tel 428-6252). Movil Tours, Avenida Paseo de La Republica 646 (tel 332-0024), for Huaraz, Caraz and Trujillo; head office at Jorin Montevideo 581 (tel 427-5309). Oltursa, Avenida Aramburu 1160 (tel 475-8559), for most coastal destinations. OrmeA±o, Avenida Javier Prado Este 1059 (tel 472-1710), for main national and interational services, though they also pass through the central depot at Carlos Zavala 177, Lima Centro (tel 427-5679): Chinchano, a subsidiary of OrmeA±o, serves the coast as far as CaA±ete, Chincha and Pisco. Peru Bus, Avenida Carlos Zavala y Loayza 221 (tel 427-6310), and Avenida Circunvalacion 2534, Urbino San Luis, for the best buses for Ica. Transportes Rodriguez, Avenida Roosevelt 354 (tel 428-0506), for Huaraz, Caraz and Chimbote. Tepsa, Avenida Paseo de la RepA?blica 129 (tel 427-5642 or 427-1233); ticket office at JirA?n Lampa 1237, Lima Centro (tel 427-5642). Turismo Apostolo San Pedro, Avenida Grau 711, Paruro 1457 (tel 428-7810), for Huancayo and Tarma. Tours Wari, Montevideo 855 (tel 426-4103), for Puno, Abancay, Nazca and Cusco (tel 427-5642 or 427-1233).

Car rental Budget, Avenida Canaval y Moreyra 569, San Isidro (tel 442-8703, 441-0493 or 441-9458, vdiaz@tci.net.pe); Dollar, La Paz 438, Miraflores (tel 444-4920; at the airport tel 452-6741); Hertz, Andres Reyes 550, second floor, San Isidro (tel 442-4509, 442-4476 or 442-4475); Inka's, JirA?n Canturias 160, Miraflores (tel 445-5716, 447-9440, Inkasrc@mail.cosapitdata.com.pe); National, Avenida EspaA±a 449, Lima Centro (tel 433-3750, 222-2020, national@correo.dnet.com.pe).

Courier services DHL, Los CastaA±os 225, San Isidro (tel 954-4345 or 221-2474, fax 440-5209), Las Begonias 429, San Isidro, and in Lima Tours, Belen 1040, Lima Centro and Avenida Pardo 392, Miraflores (all branches Mon-Fri 8.30am-7.30pm & Sat 9am-noon); Federal Express, Pasaje Olaya 260, Miraflores (tel 242-3399; Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm).

Dentists Dr Yolanda Montoro, Mercedes G. de Parks 314, Urbino Pando, in the segunda etapa (second part) of of San Miguel, close to block 22 of the Avenida La Marina (tel 566-0915); or Clinica Dental Flores, Calle Centauro 177, Monterrico (tel 435-2153). Your embassy can supply a list of English-speaking dentists.

Doctors Dr Aste, Antero Aspillaga 415, Oficina 101, San Isidro (tel 441-7502), speaks English; Dr Alicia Garcia, Instituto de GinecologA­a, Avenida Monterico 1045, Surco (tel 434-2650); Dr Raul Morales, Clinica Padre Luis Tezza, Avenida del Polo 570, Monterrico (tel 434-6990), who speaks good English; and Dr Roberto Luna Victoria, Clinica Adventista de Miraflores, Malecon Balta 956, Miraflores (tel 443-5395).

Embassies and consulates Australia, Avenida Santa Cruz 398, San Isidro (tel 441-5366); Bolivia, Los Castanos 235, San Isidro (tel 442-8231); Brazil, Avenida Jose Pardo 850, Miraflores (tel 421-5650); Canada, Calle Libertad 130, Miraflores (tel 444-4442 or 444-4015); Chile, Javier Prado Oeste 790, San Isidro (tel 221-2818 or 221-2817); Ecuador, Las Palmeras 356, San Isidro (tel 442-4184); Ireland, Santiaga AcuA±a 135, Urbino La Aurora, Miraflores (tel 445-6813 or 242-3849); New Zealand, see the UK; UK, Natalio Sanchez 125, Piso 11, Plaza Washington, Lima Centro (tel 433-4738 or 433-8923); USA, La Encalada, block 17, Monterrico (tel 434-3000, fax 434-3037).

Exchange Cambistas gather on the corner of OcoA±a, at the back of the Gran Hotel Bolivar. Alternatively, you can change cash and traveller's cheques in the smaller hostels and the many casa de cambios around OcoA±a: Tuscon Express, OcoA±a 211a; LAC Dollar, on Camana 779, second floor; and two unamed offices at Camana 814 and Camana 758, both near the corner with OcoA±a. Universal Money Exchange, Avenida JosA© Pardo 629, Oficina 16, Miraflores or Koko's Dollar, Avenida Ricardo Palma 437, Stand 21, Comercial Las Estaciones, in Miralfores, are both OK. The Wong supermarkets change dollars. You can also change money at the airport, but rates are poorer than in the city centre.

Fax services Bunkers, Avenida Ricardo Palma 280 (tel 953-9721, fax 241-1090); and Innova, Avenida Larco 1158, Miraflores (tel & fax 445-9267).

Hospitals The following are all well equipped: Clinica Anglo Americana, Avenida Salazar, San Isidro (tel 440-3570); Clinica Internacional, Washington 1475, Lima Centro (tel 428-8060); and Clinica San Borja, Avenida del Aire 333, San Borja (tel 475-3141). All have emergency departments which you can use as an outpatient, or you can phone for a house-call. For an ambulance call 440-0200 or 441-3141, but if you can, take a taxi - it'll be much quicker.

Internet services CyberSandeg, JirA?n de La Union 853, Oficina 210, in Galerias Boza-Costado, by the Plaza Martin in Lima Centro; Dragon Fans, Tarata 230 (tel 444-9325); El Allyu Cyber CafA©, Avenida San Martin 537, Miraflores (tel 446-0385, webmaster@allyu-peru.org, www.allyu-peru.org); Phantom Internet CafA© Bar, Avenida Diagonal 344, Miraflores (tel & fax 242-7949, www.phantom.com.pe); Plazanet, Avenida 28 de Julio 451, Miraflores ( www.plazanet.com.pe), which is open 24hr and has a cafA© and TV; Red Cientifica Peruana, Augusto Tamayo 125, San Isidro (tel 422-4848, webmaster@rcp.net.pe); and Web-On-Line, Avenida Wilson 1160, Lima Centro (tel 425-0390).

Laundry Many hotels will do this cheaply, but there are numerous lavanderA­as in most areas; the Lavanderia Saori, Grimaldi del Solar 175, Miraflores (tel 444-3830; Mon-Sat 8am-7pm) is fast; LavaQueen, Avenida Larco 1158, Miraflores does washing by the kilo at reasonable prices.

Optician Avenida Jose Pardo 495, Miraflores.

Police The Tourist Police are at the Museo de La Nacion, Javier Prado Este 2465 (tel 225-8699).

Postal services The main post office is at Pasaje Piura, JirA?n Lima, block 1 near the Plaza Mayor (Mon-Sat 8am-8pm & Sun 8am-2pm), with other branches on Avenida Nicolas de Pierola, opposite the Hotel Crillon (Mon-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 8am-noon), and in Miraflores, at Petit Thouars 5201, a block from the corner of Angamos (Mon-Fri 8am-8pm). The best bet for sending large parcels is to use KLM (see Airlines) who charge about $12 a kilo to Europe. Concas Travel, Alcanfores 345, Oficina 101, Miraflores (tel 241-7516), can arrange larger shipments. Poste restante letters are kept for up to 3 months in the main post office; address mail to Poste Restante, Correo Central, JirA?n Conde de Supunda, Lima Centro, Peru. American Express also offer poste restante.

South American Explorers' Club The clubhouse is at Avenida Portugal 146, BreA±a, between avenidas Bolivia and EspaA±a (tel 425-0142); the postal address is Casilla 3714, Lima 100. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm.

Taxis and transfers Good 24hr taxi companies include: Taxi Seguro (tel 275-2020); San Borja Taxis (tel 476-8945, 475-5630, 225-8600); and P&P Transport Turistico (tel 424-9556). For transfers, call the airport shuttle, Ricardo Palma 280 in Miraflores (tel 446-9872); Calderon (tel 940-7603); De Primera, an (tel 475-4631); or Transporte Turistico La Inmaculada (tel 917-2142, 975-8342 or 330-2195). Always agree on a price beforehand.

Telephones Phone kiosks are found all around the city. In Lima Centro the main TelA©fonica del Peru office is near the corner of Wiese and Carabaya 933 (daily 8am-9pm), on Plaza San Martin.

Tourist Protection Service tel & fax 575-1434 ext 4141, or tel 574-8000.

Translation services Ibanez Traducciones, Miguel Dasso 126, Oficina 301, San Isidro (tel 421-6526 or 421-6511, fax 441-4122).

Travel agents and tour operators The best are: Aguamarina, Avenida Sergio Bernales 465, Urbino Aurora, Miraflores (tel & fax 241-2562 or 241-9685); Fertur Peru, JirA?n Junin 211, Lima Centro (tel 427-1958, fax 428-3347, fertur@correo.dnet.com.pe); HIRCA, Bellavista 518, Miraflores (tel 241-2317 or 242-0275); Kinjyp Travel, Plaza San Martin 971 (tel 427-6760); Lima Tours, BelA©n 1040, near Plaza San Martin (tel 424-7560 or 424-5110, fax 330-4488, inbound@limatours.com.pe, www.limatours.com.pe); Marili Tours, Diez Canseco 392, Miraflores (tel 444-0889, 241-0142 or 241-0384, marili@amauta.rcp.net.pe), who have guides and go to most of Peru, including Cusco, Madre de Dios, Puno and the Northern desert region; Overland Expeditions, JirA?n Emilio Fernandez 640, Santa Beatrice (tel 424-7762), who specialize in the Lachay Reserve; Panamericana de Turismo, Avenida Benavides 560-564 (tel 444-1377 or 444-3250, fax 444-4665); Peruvian Life, Calle Diez Canseco 337 (tel 444-8825, fax 446-3246, peruvian@peru.itete.com.pe); Peruvian Safaris, Avenida Inca Garcilaso de la Vega 1334 (tel 431-6330); Rainforest Expeditions, Aramburu 166-4b, Miraflores (tel 221-4182 or 963-8759, fax 421-8183, Izapater@rainforest.com, www.perunature. com); Raymi Travels, Avenida Federico Gallesi 198 (tel 263-7203, fax 263-0749); TEBAC, JirA?n Huascar 1152, Jesus Maria (tel 423-2515), who specialize in trips to Marcahuasi; and Viajes Lazer, Avenida Comandante Espinar 331, Miraflores (tel 447-9499, fax 447-8717).

Visas Migraciones, corner of Prolongacion Avenida EspaA±a and JirA?n Huaraz.

Western Union JirA?n Carabaya 675, Lima Centro; Avenida Petit Thouars 3595; San Isidro (tel 422-0036 or 422-9723, fax 440-7625); and Avenida Larco 826, Miraflores.