Over the Christmas period, a Krakow speciality is the construction of intricately designed Nativity scenes or szopki . Unlike traditional cribs elsewhere, these amazing architectural constructions are usually in the form of a church (often based upon Mariacki), built with astounding attention to detail from everyday materials - coloured tinfoil, cardboard and wood. A special exhibition of the best prize-winning works is displayed at the Muzeum Historyczne Krakow a on Rynek Glowny, which lasts until the end of January. Some of the best examples from recent years are kept in the permanent exhibitions on the upper floor of the museum, while older szopki can be seen in the ethnographic museum. You can see some of the oldest fourteenth-century szopki all year round in the Kosciol sw. Andrzeja.

Other cultural events include the organ concerts at Tyniec from June to August, and at various of the city's churches in April. The Graphic Art Festival , held from May to September in even-numbered years, is a crowd-puller, too. And finally, on a rather smaller scale, there's an annual International Short Film Festival (May-June).

Wisla Krakow are one of the oldest soccer clubs in the country, topping the league table eight times - they were champions in 1999 and 2001. They play at the Wisla Stadium, ul. Reymonta, in the western Czarna Wies district (a 25min walk from the Rynek; otherwise bus #144 passes close by). Their bitter rivals, Cracovia, were the first soccer team ever to be formed in Poland (and were the pope's favourite boyhood club), but are currently languishing in the third division - their stadium is just beyond the Cracovia hotel on al. Focha.

For those who fancy a dip, the Park Wodny swimming pool , 5km northeast of the centre at ul. Dobrego Pasterza 126 (daily 7am-11pm; tel 012/413 7399), is the city's main aquatic indoor playground. Take bus #129 from the train station.