Near the station, the sleazy Rua da Sota and its side streets have a few pensoes that aren't as bad as they look - try the Pensao Vitoria at Rua da Sota 9 & 19 (tel 239 824 049; ?10-15/$16-24/€18-27), or the Residencial Domus at Rua Adelino Veiga 62 (tel 239 828 584; ?15-20/$24-32/€27-36). Pensao Rivoli (tel 239 825 550; ?15-20/$24-32/€27-36), nearby at Praca do Comercio 27, has good rooms, some with showers and the best with balconies overlooking the square. Alternatively, there are several options east of the university; beneath the aqueduct, at Rua Castro Matoso 8, Antunes (tel 239 854 720; ?15-20/$24-32/€27-36) offers good service. The hostel , above the park on Rua Henrique Seco 14 (tel 239 822 955; doubles ?10-15/$16-24/€18-27, dorms ?5-10/$8-16/€9-18), is friendly and immaculately run - it's a twenty-minute walk from Coimbra A, or take bus #7, #8, #29 or #46. There's a reasonable all-year campsite at the municipal sports complex (tel 239 701 497); to reach it, take bus #5 from Largo da Portagem or #7 from outside the tourist office.

There are plenty of inexpensive places to eat around the centre. For really basic fare, served up with loads of atmosphere, try the little dives tucked into the tiny alleys between the Largo da Portagem, Rua da Sota and Praca do Comercio. Adega Paco do Conde on Rua Paco do Conde is a cavernous, locally renowned churrasqueira , whilst Viela , at Rua das Azeiteiras 3 (closed Sat), serves enormous and reasonably priced portions that can easily be shared between two. Be sure, also, to try one of the traditional coffee houses along Rua Ferreira Borges - notably Cafe Santa Cruz - and Rua Visconde da Luz.