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fiogf49gjkf0d EVORA
is one of the most impressive cities in Portugal, its provincial atmosphere the perfect setting for a range of memorable and often intriguing monuments. The Romans were in occupation for four centuries and the Moors, who settled for just as long, have left their stamp in the tangle of narrow alleys which rise steeply among the whitewashed houses. Most of the monuments, however, date from the fourteenth to the sixteenth centuries, when, with royal encouragement, the city was one of the leading centres of Portuguese art and architecture.
Used as a slaughterhouse until 1870, the
Temple of Diana
in the central square is the best-preserved Roman temple in Portugal, its stark remains consisting of a small platform supporting more than a dozen granite columns with a marble entablature. Directly opposite, the former
Convento dos Loios
, now converted into a luxuriant
pousada
, has been partly attributed to Francisco de Arruda, architect of the Tower of Belem in Lisbon. To the left of the
pousada
lies the church of the convent, dedicated to
Sao Joao Evangelista
. This is the private property of the ducal Cadaval family, who still occupy a wing or two of the adjacent ancestral palace. Wait outside and you should be admitted (Tues-Sun 10am-12.30pm & 2-5pm; €2.50) to see its
azulejos
(decorative tiling), trick paintings and ossuary.
The
Cathedral
, or
Se
(daily 9am-12.30pm & 2-5pm), was begun in 1186, about twenty years after the reconquest of Evora from the Moors, and the Romanesque solidity of its two huge square towers and battlemented roofline contrasts sharply with the pointed Gothic arches of the porch and central window. The interior is more straightforwardly Gothic, although the choir and high altar were remodelled in the eighteenth century. Adjacent, in the archbishop's palace, is the excellent
Museu de Evora
(Tues-Sun 10am-12.30pm & 2-5pm; €1.50), which houses important collections of fifteenth- and sixteenth-century Flemish and Portuguese paintings assembled from the city's churches and convents.
Perhaps the most memorable sight in Evora is the
Capela dos Ossos
(Chapel of Bones; 9am-1pm & 2.30-5.30/6.30pm; €1.50) in the church of
Sao Francisco
, close to the bus station. A gruesome reminder of mortality, the walls and pillars of this chilling chamber are entirely covered with the bones of more than 5000 monks; an inscription over the door reads, "Nos ossos que aqui estamos, Pelos vossos esperamos" (We bones here are waiting for your bones). Another interesting feature of this church is its large porch, which combines pointed, rounded and horseshoe arches in a manner typical of Manueline architecture. Appropriately enough, the restored
Palacio de Dom Manuel
- the king who gave his name to the style - lies no more than a minute's walk away, in the Jardim Publico.
Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections):
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