Criollo fare , however, is still the staple of the Puerto Rican diet. Meats are mostly served with rice and red beans (habichuelas) or tostones - medallions of mashed, fried plantains. Sofrito - a sauce made from cilantro, onions, garlic and peppers - is used to season many dishes, as is adobo , a mixture of garlic, oregano, paprika, vinegar and oil. The food is typically tasty but much of it is starchy and fried in animal fat, and pork is far more popular than fish outside of the major cities.

The system of state-sanctioned restaurants , called mesones gastronomicos , presumably ensures a standard of decency among participating restaurants (most of which serve traditional criollo food), but the quality can vary widely. For a list of these establishments, contact the Country Inns Central Information Office (tel 800/866-7827) or pick up a copy of Que Pasa? .

Budget travellers can fill up at cheap rice-and-beans joints all over the island or seek out savory criollo staples like asopao de pollo (stewed chicken) and platanos (plantains) or lechon asado (roast pork) and mofongo (a ball of crushed, fried plantains and seasonings), sold from trailers or the backs of pickup trucks. Reposterias are also a good bet. Found in San Juan and in strip malls islandwide, they have some of the island's best coffee, along with breakfast postres - slightly sweet pastries filled with meat or cheese; they also sell soups, tortillas, seafood salads and fresh bread. Note that in all but the best restaurants, fresh vegetables are hard to come by, but supermarkets like Pueblo usually carry a good supply.

Coffee in Puerto Rico is strong, served black or with heated milk ( cafe con leche ), and very sweet. Look out for signs for refreshing coco frio - chilled coconuts punctured with drinking straws. While not as common, fresh-fruit drinks made from mangos, papayas and oranges (known as jugo de china ) are also available. Not surprisingly, rum ( ron ) is the national drink, as Puerto Rico is the world's largest producer of this sugarcane-based liquor; more than twenty brands are distilled here. The locally brewed beer is Medalla; Presidente, from the Dominican Republic, is also popular.

For the most part, tap water is safe to drink. However, it's wise to avoid it after storms and instead stick with bottled water, which is widely available. If in doubt, ask the locals.