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Pollenca
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Northeast of Lluc, the C710 twists through the mountains to travel the 20km to
POLLENCA
, a tranquil and ancient little town which nestles among a trio of hillocks where the Serra de Tramuntana fades into coastal flatland. Following standard Mallorcan practice, the town was established a few kilometres from the seashore to militate against sudden pirate attack, with its harbour, Port de Pollenca, left an unprotected outpost. For once the stratagem worked. Unlike most of Mallorca's old towns, Pollenca avoided destruction, but nevertheless little of the medieval town survives today, and the austere stone houses that cramp the twisting lanes of the centre mostly date from the eighteenth century. In the middle,
Placa Major
, the main square, accommodates a cluster of laid-back cafes and the dour facade of the church of
Nostra Senyora dels Angels
, a sheer cliffface of sun-bleached stone pierced by a rose window. Pollenca's pride and joy is, however, its
Via Crucis
(Way of the Cross), a long, steep and beautiful stone stairway, graced by ancient cypress trees, which ascends
El Calvari
(Calvary hill) directly north of the principal square. At the top, a much-revered statue of
Mare de Deu del Peu de la Creu
(Mother of God at the Foot of the Cross) is lodged in a simple, courtyarded
Oratori
(chapel), whose whitewashed walls sport some of the worst religious paintings imaginable. However, the views out over coast and town are sumptuous. On Good Friday, a figure of Jesus is slowly carried by torchlight down from the Oratori to the church of Nostra Senyora dels Angels, in the
Davallament
(Lowering), one of the most moving religious celebrations on the island.
There are further magnificent views from the
Ermita de Nostra Senyora del Puig
, a rambling, mostly eighteenth-century monastery which occupies an extraordinarily serene and beautiful spot on top of the Puig de Maria, a 320-metre-high hump facing the south end of town. The monastic complex, with its fortified walls, courtyard, chapel, refectory and cells, has had a chequered history, alternately abandoned and restored by both monks and nuns. The Benedictines now own the place, but the monks are gone and today a custodian supplements the order's income by renting out cells to tourists. To get to the monastery, take the signposted turning left off the main Pollenca-Inca road just south of town; head up this steep, 1500-metre-long lane until it fizzles out, to be replaced by a cobbled footpath which winds up to the monastery entrance. It's possible to drive to the top of the lane, but unless you've got nerves of steel, you're better off leaving your vehicle by the turning near the foot of the hill. Allow just over an hour each way if you're walking from the centre of town. Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections): |
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Spain,
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