Buses arrive and leave from Plaza de Goya, close to the turismo (Tues-Sun 10am-1.30pm & 5-8pm; tel 958 610 314). Along and off c/de Hortensia, the main avenue that winds down from the town to the beach, are a few pensiones and hostales : Pension Arnedo , c/Nueva 15 (tel 958 610 227; €12-18), has the least expensive rooms, while Pension Mari Carmen (tel 958 610 906; €12-18), over the road, is equally good, with fans in the rooms. The most atmospheric places to eat are the chiringuitos lining the seafront, among which El Penon , on the promontory from which it takes its name, is good value and serves up great paella.

Just before Motril , the N323 heads north to Granada, a great route, skirting the Sierra Nevada. The coast road continues towards Almeria through an unremarkable sprawl of resorts of which the most worthwhile is CASTELL DE FERRO . It's quite sheltered, still preserving remnants of its former existence as a small fishing village, with good, wide beaches to the east and west. Avoid the small town beach which is dirty and uninspiring. If you want to stay, head for the seafront where there are numerous possibilities: the friendly Hostal Bahia , Plaza de Espana 12 (tel 958 656 060; €18-27), is worth trying. The closest campsite to town is El Sotillo (tel 958 656 078; June-Sept), near the beach.