A fair selection of bars and restaurants serve simple, inexpensive Canarian dishes, tapas and international fast food at the centre of town. In addition to the places listed below, there are plentiful cafA©s , most of them scattered around the two adjoining plazas in the town centre, which make a good place for coffees, cakes, ice creams and snacks. Some stay open late, serving drinks until around 2am.

BreA±usca , C/del Medio 11. Wood-furnished bar serving good basic Canarian food - try the tasty cress soup, chunky stews such as rancho canario or the spicy rabbit in salamorejo sauce. There's a good selection of meat and fish and the restaurant opens from 9am - serving omelettes for breakfast. Closed Sun. Inexpensive.

Casa del Mar , Avda Fred Olsen 2 tel 922/871 219. Photos of ships and boats line the walls of this brightly light restaurant that serves the largest selection of fish and seafood on the island. The friendly owner prepares most of the dishes and does an excellent fish stew ( cazuela ), involving gofio and lots of herbs, that takes almost an hour to prepare. The good food and moderate prices attract locals as well as visitors. Open for lunch and dinner, but closed Sun. Moderate.

Cubino , C/de la Virgen de Guadelupe 2. Small, rustic, but brightly lit bar and restaurant just off the main square serving typical Canarian fare. Main courses such as the solid tuna steak and grilled chops cost less than a?¬6. Order papas arrugadas to dip in the great home-made mojo . Inexpensive.

La Casa Vieja , C/de la RepA?blica de Chile 5. Small simple bar where the TV blares football and you can get fresh tapas off a chalkboard menu listing dishes such as octopus, rabbit and goat. Inexpensive.

La Tasca , C/de Ruiz de PadrA?n 34. Multilingual menus indicate a mostly tourist clientele in this old, dimly lit Canarian house. Even so, prices are pretty reasonable and there are lots of fish and meat dishes to choose from. Most are simple dishes such as garlic chicken with chips, or a great mixed salad involving lettuce, tomatoes, onion, artichoke, asparagus, beans, olives, carrots and paprika. Try the excellent spicy Mexican tomato soup to start. The restaurant also has a good wine selection. Open evenings only. Inexpensive to moderate.

MarquA©s de Cristano , C/del Medio 24 tel 922/870 022. Classy restaurant in a restored eighteenth-century house. The superb selection of tapas is served in a pleasant courtyard, while the restaurant above serves Canarian food with a decidedly gourmet twist: rabbit in marmalade; lobster with melon and mint; and garlic shrimps. The restaurant opens for lunch and dinner and often puts on live music on Saturdays. Closed Sun. Expensive.