A central hotel is Basic , Kungsgatan 27 (tel 018/480 50 00, www.basichotel.com ; A?25-30/$40-48), with simple, bright and clean rooms and weekend reductions. For camping , Sunnersta Camping (tel 018/27 60 84) is at a site 7km out by Lake MA¤laren at Graneberg, which also has two- to four-berth cabins for 250-400kr a night; take bus #20, #22 or #50 from the centre. It's difficult to beat lunch at Sten Sture & Co. , a large wooden house immediately below the castle off Nedre Slottsgatan, with a good range of meat-based dishes during the day and live bands in the evening. The best cafA©s are Ofvandahls , Sysslomansgatan 3-5, a student classic, but only fun for smokers, and GA?ntherska , A?stra A?gatan 31, another favourite and strictly non-smoking. Also popular is the CafA© Katalin at A?stra Station, behind the train station, which holds sporadic jazz nights. The best cafA© of all, though, is Wayne's Coffee , SmedgrA¤nd 4, with vast windows looking out onto the street. There's a wide range of really good restaurants , such as Svenssons krog/bakficka , Sysslomansgatan 15, which is the best place for fish dishes and traditional Swedish fare, and there are also cheaper pasta options. During the summer, the most popular option is an outdoor cafA© and of these, the first to try is Svenssons A?kanten on St. Eriks Torg right by the river.