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Eating, drinking and nightlife
 

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ZA?rich offers a wealth of places to eat cheaply , with Manora , Bahnhofstrasse 75, offering best value. The train station, in addition to the good-value Nordsee seafood bar opposite the tourist office, hides Suan Long on the lower shopping-level, which does filling stir-fries for Sfr13-15 (stand-up only). Mensa Polyterrasse , on KA?nstlergasse at the university, is a student cafeteria open to all. A wander through Niederdorf will turn up dozens of falafel, sausage, noodle and french-fry stalls, plus beer halls serving up daily specials for about Sfr13; Schlauch , upstairs at MA?nstergasse 20, serves health food in a quiet atmosphere; ZA¤hringer , on ZA¤hringerplatz, is a co-operative-run cafA©/bar with an alternative-minded clientele; Pinte Vaudoise , Kruggasse 4, serves what's been voted the best fondue in ZA?rich; Bodega EspaA±ola , MA?nstergasse 15, is an unmissable, deeply atmospheric tapas bar and paella restaurant; and frothy CafA© Schober , Napfgasse 4, could bring out the little old lady in anyone - don't leave ZA?rich without sampling their hot chocolate . On the west bank, Hiltl , Sihlstrasse 28, is a top-quality buffet vegetarian, with budget prices for takeaway. Of Niederdorf's innumerable bars , Pigalle , Marktgasse 14, is a popular hangout; WA?ste , Oberdorfstrasse 7, is mellow and comfortable; Babalu , Schmidgasse 6, chic and black-lit. Lenin once watched the world go by from the big-windowed Odeon , Limmatquai 2; and legend has it that if you can swing up and wriggle your way through the gap between beam and ceiling at the Oepfelchammer , Rindermarkt 12, then your beers are on the house. Rheinfelder Bierhalle , Niederdorfstrasse 76, is choice of the hearty beer halls. On the west bank, James Joyce , Pelikanstrasse 8, comprises an original nineteenth-century bar interior, transported here piece by piece from Dublin; and Nelson , Beatengasse 11, and Noble Dubliner , Talstrasse 82, are English-style pubs. BarfA?sser , Spitalgasse 14, is Europe's longest-running gay bar, and Venus , Badenerstrasse 219, is women-only.

Supplementing its lively music venues, ZA?rich's club scene has skyrocketed recently, and you'll find dance floors heaving. The deeply hip quarter around Langstrasse, west of the centre, is full of DJ-bars, and the industrial quarter to the northwest is where the best underground clubs hide themselves; check flyers on Langstrasse or at Zap Records, ZA¤hringerstrasse 47. Rote Fabrik , Seestrasse 395 ( www.rotefabrik.ch ), is a former squat venue with live bands and big-name DJs (as well as excellent cheap food); Abart , Manessestrasse 170, has good live music; Casa Bar , MA?nstergasse 20, and Moods , Sihlamtstrasse 5, focus on jazz; Dynamo , Wasserwerkstrasse 21, hosts alternative, punkish bands and dance nights; Labyrinth , Pfingstweidstrasse 70, plays house (mixed gay/straight); and Oxa , Andreasstrasse 70, is famous for its after-hours parties (Sat & Sun 5-11am). Early August sees the Street Parade ( www.street-parade.ch ), a hedonistic weekend of techno street-dancing second only to Berlin's Love Parade. Listings are in ZA?riTipp , Friday supplement to Tages Anzeiger newspaper.


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