Consulates Canada, 151 Chiang Mai-Lampang Superhighway (tel 053/850147); China, 111 Th Chang Lo (tel 053/276125); India, 344 Th Charoenrat (tel 053/243066); UK, Grounds of the British Council (tel 053/263015); US, 387 Th Witchayanon (tel 053/252629-31).

Cookery lessons Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School, 1-3 Th Moonmuang (tel 053/206388). Holds one-, two-, three- or four-day courses (B800/B1600/B2300/B3000) covering traditional Lanna, common Thai dishes and vegetarian options. Lessons are held at the cooks' home, 10km northeast of Chiang Mai (free pick-up). Book ahead.

Hospitals 24-hr emergency service at Lanna, 103 Superhighway (tel 053/211037-41 or 215020-2), east of Th Chotana; or McCormick on Th Kaeo Nawarat (tel 053/240823-5).

Immigration Office 300m east of the airport (tel 053/277510).

Internet access Aumnet Internet Service, 65 Th Moonmuang (daily 9am-10pm); Thapae On Line, Th Thapae; Assign Internet at the Chiang Mai Pavilion, 145 Th Chang Klan (daily noon-10.30pm) and at the Huay Kaew Shopping Centre, Th Huay Kaew (daily 11am-8.30pm).

Meditation Month-long Vipassana courses at Northern Insight Meditation Centre, at Wat Ram Poeng (aka Wat Tapotaram) on Th Canal near Wat Umong (tel 053/278620). Sunshine House, 24 Soi 4, Th Kaew Nararat (no phone), is a centre for meditation, yoga and t'ai chi.

Police 105/1 Th Chiang Mai-Lamphun (tel 053/248974; or nationwide helpline tel 1699).

Post office The GPO, near the train station on Th Charoen Muang, has an overseas phone and fax service (daily until 4.30pm). Poste restante should be addressed to: Chiang Mai Post Office, Th Charoen Muang, Chiang Mai 50000.

Telephone services International phones at the Chiang Mai Telecommunication Center (open 24hr) on the Superhighway, just south of the east end of Th Charoen Muang.

Thai language courses AUA, 24 Th Ratchadamnoen (tel 053/211377 or 278407) holds sixty-hour courses (B3500). Thirty-hour courses and single lessons (B250/hour) are also available.

Traditional massage Massages and courses at Old Medicine Hospital, 78/1 Soi Moh Shivagakomarpaj, off Th Wualai near the airport (daily 8.30am-4.30pm; tel 053/2750850); and at International Training Massage behind Wat Santihan at the northwest corner of the moat (tel 053/218632).